CWE5800ACS Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.

bought used, oven light was damaged from previous repair attempt, without installation instructions removing the fixture was tricky, had to bend the housing tabs inward w/screwdriver to release fixture (more damage). once out the new fixture went in place quite easily, wires simply hook up, re install back panel, re-connect power, Have a nice Day!

Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle

Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.

I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fish out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.

First, we cut the power to the oven and removed the oven racks. I removed the two screws holding the old heating element in (removed easily, I didn't need any WD-40) and pulled the element wiring out of the back of the oven. It took me a while to realize how the wiring was/is connected to the element, but once I did they came off fairly easily with a little coaxing from some pliers. On our model, the wiring thingums fit down onto the element prongs. So, you pull the straight up to remove them. Very technical terms here. After the wires and the new element were connected, I screwed the new element in, turned the power back on and the oven was is excellent working order again.

Took old insulation off and replaced it with new by hooking new part in its place.

Removed two screws on sensor in the oven. Pulled out stove and after unplugging same removed the back panel. Sensor has an electric connection on the rear of the oven with a connection that is easily separated. Threaded new sensor electrical connection through inside of oven and connected on the back of stove. Pushed insulation back around the wire were in goes through to the oven. Replaced back on stove and screwed in two screws which hold sensor inside the oven. Replaced back cover on stove, plugged it in and pushed it back in place. Did the trick for me..

The seal is suspended by metal clips at each end, which are inserted into holes in the oven box. The clips on the new seal were a bit too wide to fit into the holes. so I drilled the holes larger, and it worked fine.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Unplugged the range, took off back shield (4 screws) unplugged the old part and plugged the new part in, put the shield back on and plugged the range back in. When you remove the light unit behind the lens after unplugging the two contacts slide it sideways toward you, it is slotted, don't try to pull it straight out or you will break the lens.

I found the oven model #, and ordered a control module from Part Select. Rcvd the part a few days later, carefully installed and wired it in place like the old one. Well, to my surprise, it did not work. So, I called Part Select, ordered another and I will return the defective part for credit. The second module was rcvd, installed and works just fine. The two reps I spoke from Part Select were very professional and helpful. I am hoping I will receive credit for the defective part as they said they would. Al

Removed the two screws on both elements, pulled the wires off, put the wires on the new elements and put the screws back in. Very easy, works perfect.

Couldn't get oven to slide all the way out of cabinet. Disconnected electrical (first threw correct circuit breaker), then slid oven out. Removed applicable parts to get to the hinges. Later realized the oven WOULD slide all the way out of cabinet WITHOUT disconnecting electrical. Once oven was slide out far enough from cabinet, oven door hinges were easily accessable and it each hinge only had two screws.