CWE4200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Removed the two screws on both elements, pulled the wires off, put the wires on the new elements and put the screws back in. Very easy, works perfect.

Turn off the breaker. Remove the two screws holding the bake element and disconnect the two wires. Plug the new element in and re install the screws. Trip the breaker back on and test the oven. It works.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

Turned power off by switching off the breaker. Removed both racks from oven. Removed two Phillips head screws at back of oven securing the old heat element. Pulled old heat element forward about four inches exposing the two power wires connected to it. Removed the wires from their connectors. Removed old element. Connected new element to power wires and pushed it back in place. Replaced new Phillips head screws. Replaced racks, and turned power back on. Oven was fixed in less than five minutes. Disposed of old element. Life is good.

Followed provided video

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

Very easy. remove two screwa , pull element forward, unplug.Set new element in place, plug in. push back in. Screw in both screws and your done.

Changed bake element in oven.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Unscrewed two screws, unplugged two small plugs, plugged the new ones in and screwed the screws back in. Less than 10 minutes.

Compressed the springs and removed the damaged switch, then changed the wiring over to the new switch and press into place, worked fine.

Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with matched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.

put the old one out,put new part in that easy,works like new

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards