CWE4200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

The part arrived promptly and as described. I had already unscrewed the bad coil so it was easy to just put the new one back in on the open sockets. I then put the top support plate through the element and quickly screwed it back on.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

I shopped around locally before shopping online. Parts Select provided me with significant time and money savings.

Turn off power. Remove the element. Installed the new element. Turned on the power. Easy... Easy... Easy...

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

I made the mistake of thinking that, if the oven was off, there would be no voltage to the heating element. Wrong! I removed the element, wearing rubber gloves just for safety, and had no problem. But when I put the wiring back on the new element and tried to slide it into the hole at the back of the oven, one of the wires brushed the metal, sparks flew, and melted one of the wires. Even though the oven was off, this wire was hot. The solution was, of course, just to turn off the circuit breaker, reconnect the wire, and slide the element back in. It works fine now.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Replaced glass door - very easy.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

First, we cut the power to the oven and removed the oven racks. I removed the two screws holding the old heating element in (removed easily, I didn't need any WD-40) and pulled the element wiring out of the back of the oven. It took me a while to realize how the wiring was/is connected to the element, but once I did they came off fairly easily with a little coaxing from some pliers. On our model, the wiring thingums fit down onto the element prongs. So, you pull the straight up to remove them. Very technical terms here. After the wires and the new element were connected, I screwed the new element in, turned the power back on and the oven was is excellent working order again.

Took old insulation off and replaced it with new by hooking new part in its place.

The seal is suspended by metal clips at each end, which are inserted into holes in the oven box. The clips on the new seal were a bit too wide to fit into the holes. so I drilled the holes larger, and it worked fine.