CTX16CIZDRAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

No tools required! The replacement pan cover was shipped and arrived within 3 days. I pulled out the drawers, then the cover. Slipped the new one in, slipped in the drawers and it was finished.

Pulled out the control sensor on the ceiling of the fridge. (2 screws) Took a picture with phone on how everything was installed. Unplugged all wires and pulled out Control Temp sensor. Installed new one and attached all wires. Installed back in fridge and plugged it back in. Everything works like new.

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

Look were timer was located, in my refigerator is next to the dial to ajust the temperature. used a screwdriver to get panel off. replaced timer then used a straight screwdriver to advance timer to turn on compessor . monitor temperature . checked out.

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.

The valve is not a direct replacement,seems they
are not available,had to bend mtg. brkt. so valve
would mount in same position and cut off screw
type pressure fitting so could slide discharge
tube into new type connection, no instructions
come with replacement valve,asked several
places for info wanted to be sure before cutting
off end of discharge tube. Now valve shuts off
but water still in base of refrigerator must be a
leak in inlet tube behind freezer compartment.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

Simple install. .

I took the broken part off the bar, put the new part on the bar, snapped it into the fridge, threw the old part out, opened the fridge admired my work, while I was ther I grabbed a beer....couldnt have gone better.

Condensor Fan not turning. I thought it would be an easy fix. I thought I could pull off the shroud and fan assy - no joy. Too many copper pipes and lots of tubing in the way. It took 90 minutes to remove and 30 minutes to install. The BIG hint here is to loosen the shoud, pull it back as far as you can and then remove the nut that holds the fan blade in place. THEN you can remove the motor. Get the new motor back into the shroud, get the blade back on and then tighten the shroud back up.

Removed 2 vegetable drawers and phone book and cd case supporting the vegetable drawers. Removed food items sitting on top. Lifted out cracked pan cover and put in place the new one. Reinserted all items originally removed except for phone book and cd case. It was a perfect fit and probably the easiest repair job I have ever done. I do not know why I waited 2 years to find the part.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

I discovered the ice bucket missing from my rental unit at the beach. I was able to go online with my Blackberry, easily navigate your website using the model number to look up the part information , order it, and have it in place for the next renter.
Without access to a friendly user website, I would have faced considerable delay in getting this part.

I removed one screw to loosen the cardboard panel that covered the old valve and one screw to remove the valve assembly. I disconnected the two wiring connections and unscrewed the two water line connections. Replacement was really easy since the bracket was the same as the old valve. The down stream water connection was different for the new (push in) than the old (threaded) but I cut the old threaded connector off and figured out that the new push in connection was solid (directions would have really helped here) Reconnected the inlet tubing and electrical wires and replace the panel and it was done.

All repairs made in freezer compartment.

MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BEFORE WORKING ON EQUIPMENT

Removed ice tray.
Removed bottom cover, 2 screws.
Removed center cover, 2 screws.
Removed backside cover, 4 screws.
Removed fan assembly from back wall, 2 screws.
Disconnected wires from defective motor, old fan blade was cracked spinning freely on shaft.

Reversed the order for re-assembly.
Plugged in refrigerator, now working great.

Make sure you buy the rubber grommets that supports the motor, I did not and did not notice the old ones were worn out. A vibration is coming from the new motor after repair because I used the old grommets. These should be included with the new motor.