CTX16CIXGLWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

I ordered the part and it got here very quickly. Being a novice home repair person, it took me awhile to get the courage to start. It was practically uneventful, but it did take some time to figure it out exactly. I did have to bend the piece some, which is always a little nerve wracking. However, the part is working beautifully and I feel good about myself.

remove lower back cover - disconnect wires to fan motor - place 6" fan to blow on condenser - fridge began cooling & freezing again - ordered part - part arrived - removed fan motor & bracket - cleaned brackets & fan blade - cleaned lint & dust from condenser compartment (took longer to clean than anything else) - replaced fan motor - replaced cover - was hero with wife ... :-)

i have a friend that had a big side by side refrigerator . he had repair man after repairman come and look at it. one thought it was the overload relay in the back and another just said it was compressor problems. this went on for over a month. after all of this and no one able to fix it he went and got another refrigerator . being the tinker with stuff kind of person i am i said i will come and get the old one to keep him from having to haul it off (he agreed). well i did my home work and tried a few things messing with it. tapping on the thermistat resetting the defrost timer and it dawned on me that that the fridge would run great if i wiggle a wire on the thermistat and reset the defrost timer. so i get on the internet look around for the parts. come to find out they were realy cheap. the day they get here i break out with a screw driver and a nut driver and take the cover off. i take the old parts out and put the new ones in in about 15 minutes. i wiped the inside of the frige clean and pluged it back in. well in no time flat this thing was cooling like a northern blowing through in january. then it dawned on me that i have a 27 cubic ft frige that i didnt pay any thing for (well the 65 bucks i spent on the parts) and it runs great. what a deal.

after getting the big side by side fixed up and running like a champ i realized i have a refrigerator in the garage that my parents gave me a couple of years ago that only ran for a couple of months. well i get brave and decide to try my luck with the second one. due to it sitting up for so long and the humidity i had to do a little more work to it. i replaced a few wires, changed out a couple of connections, put a thermistat , a defrost timer and a evapmotor in it this thing also ran like a champ. i cleaned it up real good ran some steel wool over the outside and sprayed a couple of coats of enamel on it and it looks brand new.

so to end this story i spent about 140 bucks and i have two refrigerators a big side by side ice and water despensing refrigerator in the house and a 17 cubic ft refrigerator in the garage (the wife was happy simply because i had a place to put beer and bait).

if i would have went and purchased both of these refrigerators i would have spent about $1400 for the side by side and about $450 for the other one. man what a bargin, so from now on even if it seems a little dificult i dont get rid of any thing until i give it a good look over and see if i can fix it. i saved a total of $1700 (minus tax).

Bing , Bang, Boom.

This is a relatively simple repair, but requires a bit of running around your house and sitting in a likely cramped space on the floor behind your refrigerator. These steps assume you have verified the valve is leaking and not the lines. 1. Locate where the water line to the fridge connects to the house plumbing. Close the next valve in the house plumbing upstream of this connection. Open some fixture (likely the cold on the kitchen sink) to relieve water pressure in this section of plumbing. Water should flow briefly, then dribble and stop on its own. 2. Unplug your fridge. There are moving parts (a fan) close to the valve that may injure you while you are working. 3. Pull your fridge away from the wall enough so you can scoot behind and sit behind. 4. Gather your tools and parts and squeeze behind the fridge. 5. Remove the felt paper dust cover. Carefully collect the screws. 6. Take a picture of the electrical connection to the valve or make a mental note. 7. Carefully unclip lines from the fridge and remove screws holding valve to fridge body. Slicing a line will create a new problem to fix. Carefully collect the screws. 8. Remove electrical connection. Grasp the connector and pull firmly. Do not yank the wires. 9. Over the bucket, disconnect old valve from lines. Some residual water will flow out. If the stream is steady, double check that Step 1 is completed correctly. Set old valve aside. 10. Examine new valve to determine water input and outlet. There may be an arrow indicating flow direction. 11. Seat the input line in the valve input firmly and connect. Mine was a nut I tightened with a small crescent wrench. 12. Seat the outlet line in the valve outlet firmly and connect. Mine was a push in quick connect. 14. Rest the valve over the bucket. Get up and turn the water back on. Verify your connections are not leaking. 15. Review your picture and reconnect the electrical connection. 16. Install the new valve onto the fridge body. Mine was a different geometry that required some gentle bending of the mounting bracket. Reclip lines to fridge. 17. While you're down there, vacuum underneath your fridge. 18. Reinstall felt paper dust cover. 19. Plug fridge back in. Clean up. 20. Monitor your ice maker, verify good operation. When satisfied, push fridge back. Recycle(?) old valve. 21. Success!

The fan was the correct part. It arrived one day after my well trained son-in-law had left for Texas. I had to install the motor myself. He had trained me well; it was not hard. the most difficult was getting the two tabs on the fan housing to fit back into the frame of the refrigerator where they belonged. Thanks. the part & delivery were overpriced, but I needed seed and convenience. Thanks for getting it right the first time.
John Moragues

I pull the old one out, and put the new one in.

This is a built-in unit. Remove the external bezel at the top of the unit. Reach through the unit and unplug the frig. On the compressor unit, you'll see a vertical metal panel. Remove the metal panel and the timer is right behind it. Remove one wire at a time and switch it to the new timer. Remove timer and replace with new one.

Just an added comment, GE Service wanted to put an "ice kit" into my unit. The full repairs would have cost $1,000. While I described how to replace the defrost timer, the problem was the tray heater. But that's another story.

took broken pan out , and replaced with new.
took broken caps off, and replace with new. that simple.

Remove two screws that hold top hinge of freezer door. Remove freezer door, use socket wrench to unscrew pin in top of refrigerator door, and remove that door. Remove two screws that hold bottom hinge and replace hinge with new one. Then replace refrigerator door and install top pin into top of door. Then set freezer door on pin and reinstall top hinge with two screws.