Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Two of the two leveling jacks of this old refrigerator were missing and had to be replaced.
I ordered four leveling jacks from this site for the refrigerator using a slightly different model number (my model was not listed). I assumed that the jacks all had the same shaft diameter and thread size. However, it turned out that the two front jacks had half-inch shaft diameters. It could be that originally there were rollers in front. The two rear jacks had quarter-inch shafts with "feet" for supporting them on the floor. So, I had to return the four jacks I had ordered and find another solution. I found two half-inch threaded bolts at the local hardware store that fit the front holes perfectly. I purchased 3.5 inch bolts to give me enough room to find the proper adjustment. I used wooden blocks and a crow bar to raise one side of the refrigerator high enough to screw in the leveling jacks. I used an adjustable crescent wrench to turn the bolts' hex heads until they were the proper height. I used the two original quarter-inch jacks in the rear holes and adjusted them to the proper height to level the refrigerator on the concrete floor where it is located. Then I removed the wooden blocks and tested to make sure the refrigerator did not wobble. I found that using the two bolts (no leveling jacks for the front holes could be found) for the front jacks proved to be the ideal solution. The job took me about thirty minutes, including the time it took to move the refrigerator into its final location and adjust the leveling jacks once more to create a solid stance so that the refrigerator did not wobble. While I had the refrigerator away from the wall, I removed the rear panel and cleaned the blades of the cooler fan and removed dust and dirt build up near the compressor with a vacuum cleaner. Then, I screwed the panel back into position, moved the refrigerator into its final place in a corner of the garage and made sure there was enough air space around it to allow for proper air circulation. This took me about twenty more minutes. I plugged it back in and listened to it come alive again. It is old but has never needed a repair and keeps everything cooled or frozen. I would suggest using threaded hex-head bolts in place of original leveling jacks if they cannot be obtained. Problem solved.
easy replacement however, front rubber seal was glued onto old shelf and not removeable in one piece. Would suggest when ordering this part, include the rubber seals - front & back if maintaining crisper seal is desired.
Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.
Could not have been easier. Trick was finding the part for a refrigerator this old, probably more than 20 years. 1. Removed crisper bin. Removed broken cover. 2. New cover dropped right into place. Replaced bin. Everything fit.
Started new gasket soaking in very hot water before removing the old gasket. By the time we were ready to install the new gasket it had mostly regained it's proper shape. New gasket install went smoothly, other than a few of the original clips broke when removing the old gasket.
Wish you gave actual outside measurements of the gaskets so that you don't have to guess the dimensions of ones that are shown overlapping.
Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks
Compressor fan bearing worn. Refrigerator was manufactured 9/78/
I followed the instructions verbatim as others explained. I did it step by step exactly as instructed, The timing was almost exact no more than 30 minutes. I removed the fan the night before the delivery of the new fan and used a small desk fan to cool the compressor. It worked fine in one half hour my freezer read a perfect zero. Thanks for all the help
1) This is a built-in refrigerator with the compressor, coils, etc. at the top. Turn off the breaker to the fridge. 2) Remove the front panel off the top (just push up and pull out). 3) Removed 2 screws to the old timer and carefully remove the plug. Plug the new timer in and screw in. 4) Since our fridge was heavily frosted up, we moved everything to another refrigerator and coolers and kept the refrigerator off until all panels were room temperature. 5) If you haven't cleaned the coil in a while, vacuum it with a soft brush attachment. 6) Turned back on and the refrigerator is cooler than ever!
