Enter the code TAKE10OFF at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on May 28 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
The plastic water fill tube got cracked when we moved. I called a parts company and they told me they couldn't just sell me the tube I would have to buy a whole kit for about $50 dollars. I decided to glue the tube. It worked for a while then it started leaking. So I thought I would have to buy
I hand screwed the fill tube into the water tube and stuck it into the freezer hole. I screwed the fill tube to the back of the refrigerator.
I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.
This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.
I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.
I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com
Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!
Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.
Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
