CSX27DRSBAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old parts and installed new. went smooth

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Removed all the freezer shelves/trays. Removed screws top and bottom on back panel. Found coils completely frozen over. Used heat gun to completely melt all the ice. Found that the Defrost Heater actually includes a new Defrost Thermostat (unlike the service manual shows). Unplugged and unsrewed the old Defrost heater parts and unclipped the Defrost Thermostat. Installed the new parts, put everything back together, and returned the unneeded Defrost Thermostat for a refund. It's been working fine ever since.

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

I removed the door from the fridge by taking off the screws that held the top plate on. I then removed the old broken cam from the door and the old hinge pin on the fridge and replaced them with new parts. I then put the door back on, screwed the top plate of the door into the top of the fridge, and with a few minor alignment adjustments with the freezer door, I was done.

Removed the top hinge and the door.
Removed door stop held in place by 2 screws, installed new door stop.
re-installed door and top hinge.
Easy once the correct diagnosis was made
It would have been nice if I could have e-mailed you the symptoms and received an accurate diagnosis. As it developed, I initially replaced the door cam before realizing that the door stop itself had broken.

Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps...
All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.

I removed all items from area of refrigerator. I removed the drawers. I unscrewed the broken slide rail. Upper drawer had left side broken. Lower drawer had right side broken. I simply screwed the new slide rail in. The glass shelf didn't fit, so I took a pair of needle nose pliers and broke off a tiny piece on the slide rail that was preventing the glass from dropping in. (I checked the old one first and could see the same thing had been done) I screwed each rail in and dropped the glass shelf back in. (The lower shelf was broken and I ordered a replacement at the same time as the broken rails. I put the glass into the plastic holder of the old (broken) shelf and slipped it back in. Very easy. I'm a housewife not a repairman. I saved a few dollars on a house call.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

Removed back panel from freezer by removing a few screws.. Unplugged refrigerator as not get shocked.. removed old heaters and thermostat and replaced with new ones and it's been working perfectly!!

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!

I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.

This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!