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Door no longer closed on it's own and would not stay closed all the time
First a big thank you to PartSelect.com. I read the stories posted by others before ordering the parts and found out that I probably needed 2 of these cams. So I followed the advice of others and ordered 2 cams. I'm really glad I did because once I got the door off I discovered both were broken up real bad. Maybe you guys should think about offering them as a set? Anyway the repair was fairly easy, except for the bottom cam which was revited to the bottom bracket. Again, thanks to the other stories about repairs with this part I was already expecting this. So the repair went like this. I removed the door by unscrewing the hinge on top(1 screw and 2 bolts). Took the door off and laid it on its side. Removed the bottom bracket( 2 bolts). Used a drill to drill out the rivit. Used a spare screw/nut that I had in a tool box to fasten the cam to the bracket. Put it all back together and I was done. The biggest challenge was figuring our if I needed 2 cams,so with the advice of others on your site, my repair was a snap.
Door closing cam split in two and door would not automatically close anymore.
This one is a no brainer… One Phillips screw on top to pull top door hinge trim. Two nuts and the top hinge is free. Then pull the door… it helps if you unload all the crap in the door bins. Remove the remnants of the door cam and that leaves a pop rivet. Put some vise grips on the head and use a hacksaw to remove the lower part of the rivet. Then pop-rivet the new door cam in place. If you don’t own a pop-rivet tool, I guess you could use a 10/32” screw and nylock. Plop the door back on and you’re done. Took all of about 15 minutes.
Removed door off hinge , remove bottom hinge, drill out rivet, lift off old cam & replace with new cam ,add new 1/4' BOLT(NOT SUPPLIED) to location where rivet was, reinstall bottom hinge & door ,check alignment, works perfect.
Placed blocks under the refrigerator door to take weight off the lower hinge pin. Removed the hinge by removing two screws into the refrigerator and two screws into the bottom of the door itself. This allows the hinge to be removed so the old nylon "closer" pieces can be removed (the one attached to the refrigerator has a rivet holding it in place so that has to be drilled out and replaced with a 3/16 inch bolt and nut). After re-attaching the nylon "closer" to the refrigerator side of the hinge and placing all the shims back in place, I re-attached the hinge to the door first, then the half hinge to the refrigerator. Had to line up the holes, tighten the screws and presto, the door closes like it was new again.
The freezer door side is more difficult as there are wires and a water line to work around.
Remove glass shelf, then remove drawer. Remove 2 screws holding old broken rail in place and replace using the same screws. Replace the drawer and glass shelf.
Rails broked, lower veggie basket sitting on bottom
Remove broken rail by unscrewing two phillips screws Discard broken rail Hold replacement rail in place with left hand, tighten phillips screws with standard phillips screwdriver. Wash scratch marks off bottom of fridge caused by drawer sliding on bottom of appliance Slide veggie drawer into place, smile at wife, receive praise.
The old cam had broken and was on the floor. I ordered one new cam. I should have been told to order at least two, I did not know they worked in pairs. So I had to re-order, I ordersed four, I was able to see that the other (freezer door has cracked cams) door will soon need replacement of the cams. I had trouble installing the new part because the rivit also needed to ba replaced. I did a "Rube Goldgerg" to get the new part to sit properly. I drilled the hole open a little and forced the part into place. All is well. Thank you very much!
1. Put all perishable food into ice chest. Empty door shelves. 2. Remove top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. 3. Supporting door, remove top hinge attached by two hex screws. 4. Lift door off bottom hinge. 5. On bottom of door, unscrew the hex screw holding the broken plastic cam. 6. Loosen the second hex screw enough to free the broken cam. 7. Replace the cam and tighten the hex screws making sure the opening of the cam lines up with the hole under the door. 8. Snap off plastic grill at the bottom of the refrigerator. 9. Remove bottom of the two hex screws holding the bottom hinge tot eh refrigerator body. 10. Loosen the second screw enought to rotate the hinge upsidedown. Tighten the screw again. 11. Now the rivet bottom is exposed so as to facilitate drilling it out to remove the broken cam. 12. Loosen the hex screw again and turn it back rightside up. Reinstall the bottom screw and tighten both of them. 13. Using an appropriate size bolt, lockwasher and nut, install other new cam. 14. Reinstall door reversing steps 1 to 4. 15. Don't forget to return the food to the 'fridge, by the way!
Refirigerator door would not close all the way on its own.
The repair went well could have completed the job in 20 minutes if I had a selection of small nuts and bolts to replace the rivet that had to be drilled out. Also buy 2 of the door closing cams Part # PS297995 one goes on the bottom hinge of the refrigerator door the other on the bottom of the refrigerator.
Refrigerator door was not closing fully and was about 1/2 lowere than it should have been
This was a 15 year old great working GE regrigerator. Refrigerator was not cooling properly, though the freezer worked great. Using flashlight, examined cam riser which was clearly broken. YOU MUST ORDER TWO GASKETS AS BOTH WILL BE WORN. After removing all food from the door, taped plastic sheet over the open space to keep food somewhat cool Removed top hinge cover and screws on top of door and lifted door out of bottom bracket placing it flat on kitchen island. Unscrewed hinge elements including old broken cam and shims form the bottom of the door and fit in the new cam. Unfortunately one of the shims was broken, so I used a thin plastic black washer from the hardware store which was big enough to fit over the pin on the bottom of the refrigerator itself. Screwed all the parts back together. Be VERY careful to note how you removed them in the first place...mabe take a digital foto or two. This was kind of tricky to remember. Then used a hammer and chisel to break off the rivit holding the bottom hinge elements on the refrigerator. Sawing with jigsaw didn't work that well. The rivit came right off. Then used a flat head screw, lock washer and nut instead of a reivit and attached the new second cam riser. You are now done with the new parts. Simply reattached the door and it closed like new. Had a simultaneoius problem with a faulty defrost heater in the freezer which also had to be replaced and which was really easy to do. About an hour max. This was the real cause of the refrigerator not cooling properly. But that's another story.
plastic water line through bottom door hinge assembly
This problem applies only to replacement of the bottom hinge assembly on the FREEZER door. Repair of the other side, the non-freezer door, is quick and easy.
The problem with the freezer door hinge assembly is that a plastic tube goes right through the bottom hinge. It appears that this tube supplies water to the ice maker.
On our fridge, the door could not be removed to do the hinge replacement without disconnecting the plastic tube. There was a junction in the tube right next to the hinge, but the junction would not give, meaning it could not be pulled apart. It appeared to be permanently joined.
So we had to cut the tube with shears. Then the door could be lifted off and the hinge was replaced.
Then the question was how to reconnect the tube. We finally did this by trimming off the remainder of the junction and rejoining the two tube ends by taping them over with lots of duct tape after the tube had been threaded through the hinge. Fortunately there was enough slack in the tube to allow this trimming and taping.
With that done, the door was lifted back onto the hinge, the top hinge insert was replaced, and the job was done.
The duct tape union in the tube so far has not leaked and we don't think it will.
