CSH22GRTAWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

All I did was take the old bucket out,, which had been frozen to the base, and I had to thaw out, by turning the refrigarater off , and use a hair dryer to melt the ice, after that I unscreewed the outer face of the old bucket, and replsced it to the new bucket

Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.

Once I received the New part, I simply removed the old one, unscrew the door assembly off of the old one and reinstall it on the new one using only 4 screws. Then simply pluged in the New Ice Bucket. If it were any easier, My Kids would have done it.

Lets start with the hard part:
Convince wife to get a couple of her girl friends
to go to a movie and see the Reader,after that
visit a cafe or pub (remembered years ago the
English Patient). Drove to get a six pack,removed the back panel-2 min, set a hair drier to position,
had a couple beers , removed the defrost heater unit
1 min. replaced it 1 min. back panel1 min,enjoyed the rest of the afternoon,finished the beer
Killed two birds with one stone
Zoltan L Petho

I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.

Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps...
All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.

Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.

I removed all items from area of refrigerator. I removed the drawers. I unscrewed the broken slide rail. Upper drawer had left side broken. Lower drawer had right side broken. I simply screwed the new slide rail in. The glass shelf didn't fit, so I took a pair of needle nose pliers and broke off a tiny piece on the slide rail that was preventing the glass from dropping in. (I checked the old one first and could see the same thing had been done) I screwed each rail in and dropped the glass shelf back in. (The lower shelf was broken and I ordered a replacement at the same time as the broken rails. I put the glass into the plastic holder of the old (broken) shelf and slipped it back in. Very easy. I'm a housewife not a repairman. I saved a few dollars on a house call.

Removed the top hinge and the door.
Removed door stop held in place by 2 screws, installed new door stop.
re-installed door and top hinge.
Easy once the correct diagnosis was made
It would have been nice if I could have e-mailed you the symptoms and received an accurate diagnosis. As it developed, I initially replaced the door cam before realizing that the door stop itself had broken.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!

I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.

This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.