Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
This was the first time I took out the old filter on my new refrigerator and added the new one. It was a little hard getting the old one out because I was afraid to pull on it but it did come out ok and was easy to put the new one in.
I recieved the package with the correct part number but the wrong part inside. The item in the package does not even resemble the part on the GE parts website. Tried to contact parts select but no luck.
I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.
Left side was broken for about 8 years. Back of glide would fall down about every 4 months. This time the upper basket jammed up on the glide and the freezer drawer would not close. Had to break it to remove the upper basket.
From the time the parts were delivered and installed two Glide Supports, it took a total of 30 minutes. If that long. Before I ordered the part, I made sure I had the socket to fit the nut and that I was able to remove it. I removed the broken one after ordering.
PartSelect was the only website that I could find that carried the part.
I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.
The Freezer has a slide out shelf. It kept coming off the glide support and the support actually broke!
I looked online and it said GE does not make the support for my model Refrigerator/freezer. I looked the picture for this part and it looked like the same one so I bought it (very inexpensive) and an extra one just in case. I took out most of the items on that sliding shelf and pulled it out. Found the correct socket for the nut and removed the remaining piece. Then just used the same nuts and new Glide support, tightened it up (but not too much, and tried the shelf. It worked !!! I added the frozen foods and I was done. It was very fast. And by the way, I am not a big home repair person. EASY.
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.