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refrigerator and freezer stopped working
I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.
I determined one of the five LED lights in the refrigerator was dead by swapping it with a working one. The refrigerator lights are wired in series and if one of the lights is dead the remaining ones turn on, but very dim. I called PartSelect.com and thanks to their help we determined the correct part to order which is the oval-shaped cover LED assembly which includes the cover, LED, and female connector. The part from PartSelect arrived in three days. The oval-shape LED plastic Cover assembly is mounted on the refrigerator and held by a couple of side latches. First unplug the refrigerator and then proceed to lightly pry the oval-shaped cover side facing the rear of the refrigerator with your finger nail to remove it. With the LED cover removed you can then press on the LED connector tab to slide it off. Now slide the female connector of the replacement part to the refrigerator male connector and snap the oval-shape plastic cover onto the refrigerator receptacle and then plug it back to its outlet. Now all the lights in the refrigerator should light up brightly! That's all folks. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yours truly.
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.
Broken spring on bottom hinge of left door mullion.
Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?
Replaced the water solenoid that has a filter/screen as part of the unit. Removed the back bottom plate. Turned off water supply, removed hose from water valve. Removed valve assembly, and un-pluged wiring. Installed new unit reverse of removal
Icemaker was dropping black particles that looked like dirt or mold. What they were was the corrosion of the metallic (pot metal or aluminum) ice form and small corroded particles falling on the ice. The ice form looked like it was coated with teflon or a paint. this form needs to be metal so heati
Replaced the 8 year old icemaker. Turned off power. Did not need to turnoff water supply. Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover. Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover. Disconnected both wire connectors. Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard. Installed new icemaker in reverse order.
1. Turned power off. 2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver). 3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate. 4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door. 5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door. 6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door. 7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door. 8. Turned power back on.
