CDB350NB2A Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

Repair was simple. I unscrewed the old grommet which held the old spray arm and screwed-on the new one. About 30 seconds was required. Other people having this problem should note that the spray-arm is made of three pieces which are inseparable when the arm is new. The arm is sold in this form. However, when your machine is having the problem that the arm falls off, the three pieces become separate. When you want to replace the spray arm, only one new part needs to be ordered because this part encompases all three components.

Took the roller out of the package, snapped it into place. Less than 15 seconds. Works good as new.

First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

I have had to keep replacing the spray arm on the bottom of my dishwasher which takes like 2 seconds to do.. First you open the dishwasher and than pull the bottom basked forward and reach down and pull the spray arm up and pop the bottom of the spray arm off and put it on the new spray arm and slip it back into the dishwasher over the thing that makes it spin around.. but the tricky part is and I didn't know this and this is why my dishwasher spray arm kept falling over and melting on the heating element.. you have to turn it till it clicks in.. and your done..

I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

Received the part 3 working days after order. Part was exactly like the original.
Removed the door. Slipped off old gasket and replaced with new gasket. Replaced door and tried rinse cycle. Worked perfectly.

With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Unscrewed retaining ring, replaced unit = piece of cake

The hardest part was disconnecting the dishwasher. the motor is located on the bottom so after pulling it out and laying it down on the front of the machine the motor unplugs and 2 screws hold it in place.The new motor comes with "O" rings so I applied a little grease and put it back together. 2 minutes to replace motor, 15 minutes to disconnect water and electric, 15 to reconnect.

I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

It required no tools. It took less than one minute to connect the spray arm to the bottom of the unit. Our dishwasher is working perfectly now.

It was simple, I do have extended warranty from AHS, but they charge me a trip charge of $55 per repair, and then all parts and labor is covered. But when I checked with Parts Select the parts costed me about $10, so I decided to do it myself.

While I was at it, I also bought other parts and updated my dishwasher with some upgrades.

Good place to buy any parts from, they are very helpful, if you do not know your parts. They even had drawings of my dishwasher, and this actually helped me find what kind of other parts I could buy to upgrade my dishwasher.

Parts select is on my favorites list and pass it on to all my friends.

The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

The "Wash" light on my dishwasher began blinking continuously. I tried to reset it by turning off the power for 5 minutes. No change. I tried the "test" sequence per the dishwasher service booklet. No luck. Knowing it was either the control panel (expensive) or the door latch assembly (cheap), I first tested the door latch. With a multi-meter, I was able to determine that the door latch assembly was not functional. This gave the dishwasher a false signal that the door was always open.
To change door latch assembly:
1: Open dishwasher door and remove all the screws holding the front door faceplate on.
2: Remove the front door faceplate as well as the control panel.
3: Locate and remove the (2) torx screws holding the door latch assembly on.
4: Take note of the placement of the four electrical connectors on the old latch assembly. ( I simply removed them one by one from the old assembly and re-connected with the new one to eliminate confusion)
5. Once electrical connectors are completed, simply reverse the process.

Done! Very happy wife afterwards!