C228W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part.
Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws.
turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good.
It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.

SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.

Simple plug in.

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Truned off power at circuit breaker box. Removed two screws to access the control panel wiring. Removed several connections to allow to pull wiring harness out for access. Removed lock nuts with combination of needle nose pliers and box wrenches. (it was difficult to find a size fit since nuts were distorted. Pulled old switch out. Inserted new one and new lock nuts. Reconnected loose wires and replaced housing. Turned on power and tested. All was well.

I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).

First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!

1. Turned off electrical breaker at electrical service panel.
2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top.
3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top.
4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection)
5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box).
6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan.
7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position.
8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor.
9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan.
10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor.
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
Note:
I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable.
I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.

The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.