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Icemaker was producing hollow ice due to water was free flowing out the water dispenser during fill time for icemaker.
Removed old water valve w/ screwdriver, cut threads off old hose (as they just plug straight into new valve) & pushed hoses into new water valve. Solved both problems!!!!
The part arrived in about 2 days! The right side support that is attached to the inside wall of the refridgerator, that holds the crisper guide, broke apart and would not support the crisper. We took everything off of that shelf and took out the crisper and the glass that is on the shelf. We then carefully pried the support from the interior wall (it was a slow tedious move to be sure we did not damage the wall of the fridge). We made sure all of the pieces were out and snapped the new one into place. For some reason the old one did not want to come out. It broke into many pieces and we carefully pulled all of the little pieces out of the notches
Defrost terminator (Thermostat) Was Stuck Open, Not Allowing Defrost, Heat Gun or Hair Dryer
PURCHASE: Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple crimp splice and shrink tube.
TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available, it is highly recommended that the new part be tested: You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one very easily per instructions found on line. TEST RESULTS- a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open". b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".
I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.
HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT): A) Prep Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm. Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily. Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make re-installing the many components easier. Gather tools from the attached list.
B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)
C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may get in the eyes.)
D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers) 1) ) Upper Drawer: a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are on each side, toward the rear of the drawer. b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4". c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a 5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver. d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer. Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs. e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly to clear the track. f) Put the drawer out of the way.
2) Lower Drawer With Front Door *Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap. a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor. b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs. c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling is required. Repeat on the other side. d) Drag the towel and door out of the way
D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer. 1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger. It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket. 2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out. 3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.
E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off) 1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold. 2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside. 3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way. 4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.
F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall) 1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free. 2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover & thread the thermistor free. 3) Set the cover aside.
G) Remove The back Wall 1) Remove all visible hex head screws. 2) The back wall can now be removed. 3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges are a little sharp
H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer. Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation or plastic components will be damaged.
I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner. The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.
J) Install The New Thermostat Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)
Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !
The repair was not it. It was the customer service by the ladys that answered the phone. Both of them were the same as to give me a perpaid return shipping label and my money back. It was like being at the return desk at W.M. and not like at some of the on line service I have come to know...
I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.
Original unit had screw on lugs. After removing old unit, I unscrewed the lugs, cut the lines to remove the nuts and inserted them into the new unit. Everything was color coded so connection was simple. Reinstalled unit, cycled the ice maker several times only to discover the fill tube at in the freezer had frozen ice blocking the tray from getting water. Used a hair dryer to thaw out the tube, water flowed instantly. Very easy repair.
Removed drawer. Removed shelve. Flipped shelve over. Removed one screw. Undid tab on each end. Removed bad rail. Replaced with new rail and reversed order. Easy fix.
