AWM472W Amana Washer - Instructions

replaced belt that was wore out. decided to replace pump while I had washer apart.

I seemed to have a more difficult time changing the pump out than others who had left their instructions on line prior to me.
What I has to do is remove the 4 bolts that secured the motor & mount to the frame. I then unplugged the wire harness from the motor leads.
I removed the belt tensioning spring & removed the belt.
I then removed the motor, motor mount and pump assembly. Turned it upside down & removed the pump. When installing the new pump you will need to remember how the belt was routed. A local parts house actually gave me a xeroxed schematic that showed me how to route it. A real life saver.
After that I turned the assembly right side up, bolted the mount into place, installed the new belt onto the large flywheel, attached the belt tension spring, plugged in the wiring harness and ran a rinse cycle. No leaks. Good as new.
Yes. It took a little longer than expected. But it was alot cheaper than having a service man do it.

We noticed that water was on the ground of the laundry room. We initially thought that the washer was leaking. Realized that the washer was going on the spin cycle without draining the water which caused the water the slosh over the edges and then leak on the floor. Well, I had to remove all the wet clothes and suck the water out with a shop vaccuum-this actually took most of the time. After taking the front of the washer off, we noticed the water pump was stripped out. After removing the pump, we then noticed one of our kid's socks jammed in the pump. How the sock got there is still a mistery. We found the replacement part on PartSelect and ordering was easy and fast. Thanks. We're washing clothes again.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

Unpluged washer, turned off water supply, removed front covers, removed spring on right side to allow drum to lean over, removed the 2 hoses from pump, removed motor (4 bolts), removed 3 screws holding pump. Installed a new belt and replaced the pump. I replaced the hoses on the pump, replaced the spring, and turned on the water, plugged in the washer, turned it on and hoped for the best. Worked fine, no leaks or problems.

I was at work but a friend of ours and my husband did the repair. But what I was impressed about is how fast we got the part. thanks a lot

Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.

Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.

Be sure to shut the water off before doing anything and to drain as much water from the drum/hoses as best as possible!!! The repair was straightforward. I took the front panel off by removing 2 screws located at the bottom and angling the bottom away from the housing until I could pull down on the front panel to free it from the tension clips holding the top part of the front panel in place. This exposes the motor which is easily accessible at the front of the washer. Before doing anything you need to get the remaining water out of the drum and hoses. Best advice I can give is to have plenty of towels laid down to catch the water I have linoleum so this wasn't too bad but if on carpet you need to place the washer over the towels to catch the water and there is a significant amount even though none was seen in the tub/drum or hoses. After draining out the water. Before removing screws you need to remove the drive belt by moving the pulley so that the tension on the belt is relaxed so you can remove the belt by slipping it off the motor pulley and drum in a downward direction. Once the belt is off you can removed the four screws to the motor. disconnect the hose from the washer pump. slide the entire assembly out. you can now work freely with the motor away from the washer. My motor was seized up complete as I could not turn the shaft at all (thus the burning smell). Since I ordered just the motor and v-style drive belt, I needed to remove part of the sheet metal housing to get the washer pump which was still good off the bad motor and onto the new motor. I just reversed the process to put it all back together which is easier because you don't have to worry about draining any water!! My advice is if you are changing the motor replace the belt as well (I did - mine was severely frayed and cracked) since its all exposed anyway. Total time was 1-2 hrs if taking your time.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

My neighbor did the repair for me and I believe the instructions sent were the reason he had no trouble installing it.