ATF6700FE1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.

Remove front panel to expose shocks. It took some time to remove the old shocks, both were broken. The pins were somewhat difficult to reach and remove, especially the one on right for it was shoved up against the electric wiring box. We ended up putting that pin in backwards for the new shock because it was impossible to reach from rear. Putting the new shocks was easy it was removing the old ones that took most of the time. The washing machine is working perfectly now.

Watched a u tube video and did it myself and I'm a 58 year old woman who has never worked on a washer before!

Pulled the locking pins out, replaced the shock absorbers and re-installed the locking pins. I used Channel Lock pliers to remove and replace the locking pins. i used a deep socket to hold down the tab on the locking pins so they could be pushed out. The new shock absorbers came with installation instructions.

I removed 2 screws from the the top back of top. Removed the cover. Removed the 2 screws holding the door lock assembly.Removed the door lock assembly, disconnected the 3 wiring harnesses. Connected the wiring harnesses to the new door lock switch assembly. Installed the new unit in the door lock, reinstalled the top.Done.

The instructions that come with parts say to pull pins out with pliers. not much room to do that. I used hammers and punches where I had access and prybars nail puller an hammer to offset where the water outlet was in the way. I used a short handle hammer to install three of the pins. The third I used a prybar and spacer blocks.

Removed the 4 screws holding the top on. Pulled top forward to release front catches and stood top up out of way. Removed 2 screws holding door lock. Could not unplug wire plugs from door lock because wires too tight. Removed 2 screws holding lower front panel and removed panel. Pulled door lock down and unplugged old lock and plugged in new lock. It was easier to position door lock to reinstall screws by working from top, so top removal wasn't a total waste of time. Reinstalled front panel and top. Machine works.

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.

Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turned the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.

Just like the video said in the parts menu remove front of washer remove 2 screws remove 2 hose clamps replace pump replace 2 screws replace hoses and clamps and front door to washer done

The video was most helpful, and the left shock replacement went as shown. The sucker punch was getting to the right shock - much harder.
First notice video has washer on a stand. How nice to have had it up on a table. LOL As it was I tilted the machine back with a 6 inch block under the front. Still a bear to get to the shock, but w/ patience, doable even though you are flat out on the floor.
The old shocks were so bad that the pistons fell out once it was removed.
It takes some strength to get the pins through the new shocks, and as I have a weak left hand I had to resort to using a C-clamp to help. If I could have gotten my right hand in there I may not have needed it. Right hand did have to hold the clamp as it had to just catch the side of the pin hole since the pin is pointed and sticks out past the mounting bracket when seated.
I also ordered a spring but they both were still good.

Remove screws take off striker .Put striker back on with screws back on

Tighten screws. Took 5 minutes