Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time. Steve
Outer case of freezer was heating up, not making ice (sometimes) turned up thermostat several times (especially freezer)
I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
Followed the online PartSelect video instructions and it was very helpful. The ice maker has to cycle through before it starts making ice so don't be alarmed when nothing happens when you first hook it up.
Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm Remove the wire arm and install on new maker Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place. This took less than 5 minutes.
Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case... - check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side - inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit - remove all goods from freezer and fridge - remove freezer side racks - remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place) - allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun) - disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram) - if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so... -- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements) -- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass) -- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors -- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER. - get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F. - if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer -- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller -- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
Found a tip online that said to check the resistance of the defrost coil, when I had none I knew the coils had burned out. Before pulling the old coil out I tied on some long pieces of string as was suggested, that made things go very quick! The hardest part was reaching to the back of the narrow freezer space, but fortunately I have long arms. So far all is working well, and I have a great deal of satisfaction knowing I did the repair myself!
Loosen the screws on the sidewall (don't take them all the way out and drop them on the floor as I did) and remove the screw from the bottom bracket. Change out the electrical wires and the wire level sensor that does not come with the new unit. Put the new one in place and give it some time to cool down and make ice ( don't be impatient like I was and think the new unit was bad or that you replaced the wrong part)
replaced the water valve - just precautionary with unit age. Problem was ice tray coating was breaking down causing ice to stick during harvest cycle - refill would cause water to overflow to bin.
Removed bottom screw, loosen 2 top screws, lift ice maker up and lay over to expose wiring harness, unplugged, then reversed installation Make sure fill tube in back of ice machine is positioned in fill trough
Recommend that on any installation use a commercial grade water filter system and change filters annually, this is the first repair because of that- unit is 18 years old
First I removed all the screws from the back cover. 2nd removed fan nut and fan blade 3rd removed fan bracket 4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts. Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord Reinstalled fan nut and blade, reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!
I pulled the drive ring off of the icemaker and replaced it with the new part. Saved a $150 service call plus cost of part. It cost me a little over $11.00 and a repairman probably would have charged $30.
use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks
