ARH6700E Amana Range - Instructions

My bottom oven didn't work, and I had called a service to come out and fix it. It was a $60 charge just to come out. My friend owns an apartment complex, and she told me it was two screws and a pull to remove the element and replace. I took the element out, ordered it for $38, had it the next day and repaired my oven in a matter of minutes. It was so easy and inexepensive. I feel like I can do anything!

Turned off circuit breaker and unplugged. Opened oven door and removed 3 screws holding the range top to the range. Lifted top and proped open with a wooden block. Removed all 5 wires to the element and drew a diagram of where they came from noting the color code. Removed two screws holding the bar that supported the element
and dropped slightly while removing the two standoff screws holding the element in place.
slide the element out. The problem was that the element received from partselect.com did not physically match the terminals on the original. this required me drill out a brad on the terminal block cover to see how the terminal block was wired. I discovered that the different color wires on the old element went to physically different terminals on the new one. This was even though I had returned the first element received, got a new part no from matag and reordered.
there are tiny markings on the terminal block that helped show the way. Be sure to find them and rewire according to these markings. 1a 2a 1b 2b as the terminal locations may be different.
I am happy with the partselect,com and their attention to trying to get me the exact replacement.
Also happy with their return policy.

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

The hardest part was the two screws (they were baked on I guess). We turned off the breaker, put paper towels in the oven carefully sprayed wd40 on the screw. Waited about 5 minutes unscrewed the two screws, gently pulled out the plate. When you pull the two wires out there are two contacts. Look at the direction their on. Slide them off put in the new unit to the contacts, gently slide back in and put the two screws back. It was really that easy and I had no idea what I was doing. No need to pull oven out can all be done for the front side.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

First we turned off the power to the range top. Then propped the range top on small planks of wood in order in order to get to the 12 to 15 screws that held the top to the base. Once we had the top (glass) removed, we removed the four screws holding the bracket that held the front and rear elements. We then removed the bracket and elements, turned the bracket and elements over to remove the two screw type legs that held the dual element. Once the dual element was loose we disconnected the wires and reconnected to the new element. Then reversed the procedure to reinstall.

Removed excess/damaged glass, unscrewed hinge screws, door screws, removed handle screws, couplings, slid new glass in frame and put all back in place. The most inexpensive repair I've ever done! Under $64!

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.