ARC700E (P1142652N E) Amana Range - Instructions

After I received the new hinge in the mail, my 13 year old son volunteered, for a fee of five dollars, to put the new hinge on the oven door. Seeing "easy to install" on the outer wrapper of the new part, I thought I was being generous. However, my son soon let me know that the screws given with the new hinge did not fit into the predrilled holes of the oven. He tried and tried for over an hour to get those screws to fit. I decided to go to the home improvement store to buy bigger screws. I took the hinge with me and had the store employee assess the type of screws I would need. He then informed me that the screws were fine, but I needed the holes in the hinge to be drilled bigger. I bribed him by offering to buy him a drink if he'd do it for me as long as he was single. He laughed and drilled away. (Sometimes, single women, like me, get desperate!) He handed me the hinge with larger holes and I noticed the wedding ring. Oops...no drink for him!! But I did give him a great big thank you. Happily, I brought the fixed piece home and handed it to my son to continue with the repair. He tried again and this time announced the holes were drilled too big!! If there was a bridge nearby I seriously would have jumped! The next day I drove to my Dad's house...a true jack of all trades...and with his drill and two new screws, he said this should do it. For the third time, I handed the hinge to my son and VOILA!! It actually worked! Thanks Dad!! So much for "easy to install". Seriously, the incorrect screws were sent with this hinge! Anyway, I happily celebrated that night with a drink in my hand...minus the home improvement employee!

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.

Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver.
Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts.
Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink.
Took 20 minutes.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.

Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!

All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.

Removed old block , cut off wires , used new wire nuts, heat shrink , supplied with parts , job done lowered range top went fishing ...

Pretty simple. Turned off breaker. Lifted the top, cut the 2 wires. Going to the burner, put the 2 wire nuts on, and screwed the bracket in.

lifted the cover, unscrewed the ceramic wire fastners, put the new part in, and voila, job done and working perfectly

very easy

Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.