ALE643RBW (PALE643RBW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

DO WATCH THE PARTSELECT VIDEO ON HOW TO CHANGE A BELT. EVERYTHING I TALK ABOUT WILL BE MUCH CLEARER. I followed the "change a belt video" that partselect had to change a belt, with one exception. DO NOT PRY THE TOP OF DRYER UP. Remove front bottom then front top by removing the screws then tilting the bottom of the front top out toward you. It will drop down, then disconnect wires from front and remove. Remove 2 screws holding down the top and NOW YOU CAN RAISE THE TOP and pull off the bulkhead and pull drum out. The side of the dryer will give a little as you pull out the drum. Remove spring with a pair of needlenose pliers. There is only one bolt holding the idler pulley lever and shaft to the motor bracket. I used a box wrench on the inside and a socket wrench on the outside. I also suggest oil or grease the shaft before you put on the pulley. You will need a retaining ring pliers, a 1/2" retaining ring and two 1/2" washers, all can be puchased at Menards for about $10. Reassemble. The hardest part is sliding the belt back over the idler pulley.

It went great! Information on website helped confirm it was the cycling thermostat. Fast delivery and easy to install. Couldn't believe we repaired our dryer for less than $30.00.

I took off the front panel removed the drum and took off the belt. I then installed new belt on drum then motor. Then installed the front panel.

Thanks to anyone else who gave descriptions of the repair. Part arrived on time and was an exact match. I ordered the entire Idler assembly with a new spring. This made replacement easy. Did not have mess with snap ring and etc. I knew the idler pulley was the problem because I sprayed some silicone lubricatant (two drops) on the old shaft and that lasted for about another 40 dryer loads before it began to squeak again. I then ordered the parts. The repair was easy. Unplug the dryer first. Remove the lower panel attached with two screws. Then remove the plastic duct, which is attached with three screws. Next remove the front door, which is attached with two screws. Be careful to disconnect the wires to the door switch before removing the front door assembly. Label the wires so you know where they go when you reassemble. Next remove the front support assembly that supports the dryer drum. BEFORE I unscrewed the four screws that hold the support assembly in place, I marked the position of the support assembly to the frame at all four attachment points. This helped when reinstalling the drum by knowing the front drum support is back in its original position. At this time, I reached back under the drum and released the dryer belt from the idler pulley. Then I removed the front drum support. Next, I unscrewed the two attachment screws for the top cover. This allowed the top cover to be tilted back and made more room to remove the dryer drum. Next remove the dryer drum with the dryer belt noting which side of the belt should be against the dryer drum. I then vacuumed the lint from inside the dryer. I then studied the position of the old idler assembly and saw how the new assembly should be positioned. The old assembly was removed by unscrewing a single screw and detaching the idler spring. The new assembly was then installed. The assembly is just the reverse of the disassembly. I did not have a problem reinstalling the dryer belt. The way I did this was to have the belt already around the drum before reinstalling it. A had a second person hold the front of the drum after it was placed on the rear rollers. I then routed the dryer belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley and made sure it was correct; not twisted and rib side on the motor pulley. With the second person still holding the front of the drum, I then repositioned the front drum support matching the marks I made before removing the drum support assembly. When these marks line up, you are good to go and front of the drum is assembled properly. Reinstall the four screws that hold the front drum support assembly in place. Reinstall the two screws that hold the top of the dryer cabinet in place. Next put the front door assembly back in place being careful to reattach the wires to the door assembly. Reinstall the duct assembly. Be careful that the duct assembly engages the blower assembly completely. Thanks to everyone else that helped me with their posts.

Really simple, just take out the old and insert the new. The old filter had a felt band on the inside, the replacement did not have this felt band. Not sure how the missing felt band will effect the filtering.

Remove the front covers so the Drum can be slid out. Assemble the new Idler pulley and associated parts on the new shaft. A snap ring tool made it easy to install the retaining ring. This subassembly can be built-up before working on the dryer. With the drum removed replace the old idler pulley assembly with the new one. Reinstall the drum with the new belt draped around it. Once the drum is in place, lift the idler pulley back so the belt can be correctly placed. Make sure drum rotates freely and the belt stays in track. Finish reinstalling covers and test the operation. Aaaahhhhh the noise is gone!

It was not the drum rollers as suspected. My dryer is different than video dryer so took a bit longer to open it. The video was very helpful in many ways though - belt and tension pulley removal/installation for one. Removed the bottom panel (as others had written), the door and wires, the front baffle, released belt at tensioner and removed drum so all was exposed. Next, replaced the two drum rollers though the old ones were fine but since I bought parts in advance I replaced them anyway and put it all back together after vacuuming. Of course the noise is still there when dryer is in operation. Don't know what else it could be - perhaps felt that the drum turns in OR the belt tensioner bearing. If you have any suggestions you may forward to larry_bancroft@hotmail.com. Thank you, Larry

Dryer comes apart pretty easy. This is the second time I have replaced the Idler wheel and assembly in the seven years I have owned the dryer.

Since space was limited, I couldn't replace the parts as shown it the tutorial. Instead I got my son-in-law to come over and figure it out. He removed the bottom panel,got down on the floor, reached in and removed both parts and replaced them.I held the flashlight.It was a little awkward, but he got the job done in about 20 minutes. The dryer works better than ever and it is 17 years old. I was very thankful for the speedy delivery of the parts.

I had no idea of the part number I needed. I found a picture of the lint filter at PartSelect and took a chance and ordered what I hoped was the correct part. It arrived within 7 days, I took it out of the box and hurray, it was the same exact part! Stuck it in the dryer and it's perfect. Thanks PartSelect.

Once I realized the drum was to be removed, the actual repair was not difficult. Because of the location of the pulley, it's best to tilt the dryer. Snap ring pliers are required to remove the retaining ring on pulley. I pulled the damaged pulley from the bearing. A small gear puller was needed to removed the frozen bearing. Lightly oil the new bearing. Installing the drum is a challenge because of the loose belt. I used paint tape to hold the belt on the drum. Download the service manual for good exploded parts views.

I took the dryer apart and used the video on the website that helped a lot on how to install the belt and then we put it back together and dryer works great.

Unplug the power cord. Removed the lower pannel and door, disconnected wires after labeling them. Lifted the top. Removed the front drum support. Did not remove the drum, but I used an empty milk jug to wedge between the drum and the back pannel, and that was enough to do the replacement. I vaccumed all the inside from all the lint around the motor and all the duct system. I received the part in 2 bussiness days, very impressed and my experience was very positive.

Great

Went well, the video for replacing the belt provided some helpful tips. The heater replacement was easy and the video for the thermal devices help to ensure what I had were still operative.