Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit. My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts. The element is working great now. Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
(1) Disassembled range element cartridge unit by removing six machine screws on sides (2) Removed old element receptacle assembly (note screww attaching the clip to ring was corroded and had to be drilled out and replaced - screw not included), retaining existing element (determined it was good) (3) Fited up new element receptacle assembly and determined how far the new wires would go, cut the old wires at appropriate point (allowing for wire splice). (4) Attached new element receptacle assembly using a machine screw I found in my collection (5) Routed new wires though retaining clips, and spliced into old wires near the cartridge plug (note: be sure to use high temp splice nuts - not supplied in kit) (6) Installed old element into new receptacle and tested by measuring resistance - element resistance should be about 12 ohms, with all connections to ground reading infinity) (7) Reassembled cartrige assembly using six machine screws previously removed (note, make sure the part align properly - top inside the bottom) (8) Put the assembly back on range - worked great!
Our Jenn-Air cook top is 25 years old. One can no longer order parts for this old of model. We ordered new SS burners as well as new Burner cartridge terminal blocks for a new and current model. They work perfectly. Took 10 minutes. $ 350 dollars verses $ 2600 for a new JennAir range plus instillation. Unit looks and works great. Plan to order new switches next.
Burner was out but the burner coil worked on onother burner
Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
The contact spades were burned from 10+ years of use and the cook top module was worn. I disassembled the module, taped the top to protect the creamic cook top, sanded the metal and spray painted to restore the original white finish. On the bottom half I replaced one missing pop rivet and cleaned and spray painted the bottom to restore to the original black. When the contact spades arrived, I replaced the contact spades and reassembled the module. It now works and looks like it did when it was new.
I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.
This is the second time PartSelect came through for me. If it hadn't been for you guys, I'd have had to buy a new Jenn-Air cooktop, because ours is nearly 30 years old. About two years ago, I bought a new two-burner cartridge, which installed without tools in about one minute. But a few weeks ago, we lost the burner in the other cartridge. I emailed PartSelect, and even though I gave them my obsolete model number, a helpful service rep managed to find me the part number of the correct burner, so I was able to place my order. Once the part arrived, there was no problem replacing the burner. This is a simple operation we've performed many times when we need to remove the burner for cleaning.
Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
Burner would not get hot.....only warm. Connector was worn as well.
First, I removed the two screws holding the element in place. I removed the element from the connector. I then removed the trim ring and drip pan. I unscrewed the retaining screw holding the connector and pulled out the connector about three inches and disconnected the two wires leading to from the old connector. I removed the old connector. I then connected the two wires leading from the new connector and fasten the connector to its retainer with a screw . I reinserted the drip pan and trim ring and plugged the new element into the connector. I turned on control knob to high and tested the element., which glowed red hot. Job completed and customer very well satisfied..
Problem was the neutral connector spike was burned and didn’t make good connection. Service man said he couldn’t get parts and charged $100 and left. The neutral conductor cost about $12. And was an easy fix!