Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
We were seeing leakage on any but the smallest load size - higher water levels were pushing the worn seal back, not a total seal failure.
Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.
Washer drum stopped spinning; Very loud squealing with burning rubber smell
We were not sure if the problem was the belts since they were not completely broken or overly worn down, but decided to try to put new ones on given the burning rubber smell and some light smoke coming from beneath the washer when it was on the spin cycle and the drum would not spin. We found some how to videos online and through the part select customer experiences, we ordered the belts and got them within 2 days. We put the new belts on, which is fairly easy and quick to do with the proper tools once you get the front panel of the washer off. The new belts seemed to have done the trick, as the washer began spinning again with no odd sounds or smells once the new belts were installed, and it has been running great so far. I highly recommend ordering from this site, as the parts are the real factory parts and are easy to find an order based on your appliance model. I found the pricing and convenience, as well as knowing the parts would be right and the best quality, to be the best part of this site, as ordering from other online retailers may land you with the wrong parts or kits with parts you don't necessarily need.
Removed wet close and removed 99% of all the water with a simple sifon hose and sponges. Diconnected electric and water supply hoses. Layed washer on its back. Removed front of washer. Disconnected hoses to water pump and checked for blockage. None. You need to capture the risidual water from the hoses and the pump if you are working in an area that cannot tolerate spills. Pulled pump out (three screws) put a screwdriver and blocked the pump impellar and rotate the punps pully. Pully rotaded freely so the pump is bad. The two belts were pretty worn out so I replaced them also. Hooked up everything in reverse. Adjusted the tension of the belts as required. The drive belt for the pump should be pinched to 1/4". Checked the moter glides also. Put everything back together, checked for leaks and did a load of wash. Everything good. Dismanteling and diagnostics and clean up took about 30'. Assembly took another 30'. Purts fit perfectly.
I had a Burning Rubber smell, along with water leaking from the bottom of machine.
I propped up the machine. Turned the water off .took the pump belt off, then took the two hose clamps off. With a bucket and towels on hand for left over water in the hoses, i removed the two hoses. Then removed three screws that held the pump on. Installed the new pump in reverse order.
key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.
Used duct tape as the video provided instructed and also to hold second hinge lid ball in place. Firmly pushed down on the lid until it easily popped in place.
Tilt the washer sideways. Remove belts,Remove front panel, loosen two hoses, loosen three small nuts. Take out old pump and install new new pump vise versa. Video provided by partselect very helpful.
Observed source of leak by lying on floor behind washing machine and placing hand in likely spots. Found water injector hose was source. Searched web for instructions to open up washing machine: 2 screws at bottom of front panel, then 2 screws at top inside after removing front panel. Easy after that. Lots of rust and rusty screws and rusty tinnerman nuts; had to grind off one of the screws with dremel tool.
The hot water supply hose developed a bulge that was due to blow soon.
Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.
I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.
First I removed the two screws to pull off the front panel. I then removed the two screws (1/4 inch head) in the upper front corners. Removed clamp from siphon break and carefully worked off hose. After a couple of failed efforts to put hose on dry I put some o-ring type grease on the barb and it went on easier. The clamp was a bit difficult too but take your time and it will go on. Putting injector end in tub required patients. Reassembly was reverse of above. All good for another 25 years!
