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Loud Squeaking
1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
Unplugged Dryer. Opened top of Dryer, over the drum. Removed Thermal Limiter. Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open. Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up. Replaced Thermal Limiter. Closed top of dryer. Plugged Dryer back. Tested Dryer - it works.
Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.
Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front panel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.
I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
Had a professional do the install. He had difficulty aligning the cabinet so that it did not rub against the dryer drum. The parts you mailed me worked fine and resolved the problem. Thanks. Even having to pay the installer saved me 50% on the total job.
Installer unscrewed the screws on the upper panel, loosened the pulley holding the rubber drum cable, and pulled the drum up and out of the unit. With the rear heating element exposed, he unplugged the wire connections to the heating element, unscrewed the four screws holding the element to the rear panel and took the element out. Then he installed the new heating element by re-applying the four screws into the rear panel. He then replaced the thermal limiter which was directly at the right of the heating element by unplugging the wire connections to the thermal limiter and then unscrewing the thermal limiter from the rear panel. The process to install the new thermal limiter was the reverse process. He didn't install a new High Limit Thermostat because there was one attached to the new Heater. When all the new parts were installed, he reinstalled the drum by pushing the rear nub of the drum into the whole at the center of the heating plate. He then placed the rubber drum cable around the drum with the rough service facing the drum, placed the cable on the pulley and adjusted the tension of the cable with a screw driver. He then reinstalled the front panel by aligned the screw holes and reinserting and tightening the screws.
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )
Dryer was leaving marks on the clothes and they were getting stuck in the rim around the door .
Let me start by saying that I am a stay-at-home mommy of 2-year-old twin girls so if I can do this, you can too. 1. I disconntected the dryer from the outlet. 2. Then I had to pop open the top of the dryer. I had to wedge a screwdriver underneath the top lid (towards the front corners) in order to open the top. 3. Looking into the dryer from the top I could see a few screws I needed to remove that were along the sides of the drum. After removing the screws, I was able to remove the front panel of the dryer exposing the drum. 4. The seal that I needed to repair was located on the front panel. I had to remove the old seal (I had to scrap to get some of it removed). 5. I applied the adhesive then attached the upper and lower seals. 6. I let the seals dry for a few minutes then replaced the ront panel. In replacing the panel, the seals need to fit around the drum. You need to be careful in fitting the drum so that the seals remain intact and not pushed out of place. 7. Then, I simply replaced the screws to the front panel and secured the top lid back in place. FYI: I did have a problem with the lower seal, in placing the drum over the seals, the lower was pushed out of place without me knowing. A few days later, the dryer was making a noise and clothes were still getting caught. After opening the dryer and examining the seal, I needed to reattach the seal. I was out of the adhesive but was able to use Gorilla glue (can withstand any temperature once it is dry). Works good as new now. FYI: I also have to add that the actual replacing of the seals did not actually take 2 hours but since the dryer was opened, I took advantage and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the dryer.
First: Remove front and top cover Second: remove electrical cover assbly Third: motor belt removed Fourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replaced Now I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum
I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.
