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No clock, oven control buttons don't work, stove top work ok, tested power was ok to the control board.
Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel
Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
Burner went to "HI" after control knob turned past "MED"
Removed the screws holding the back in place, then pulled off the control knob and removed the two screws holding the infinity switch. Swapped the leads from the old to the new switch and reinstalled everything. Worked like a champ!
Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive). To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER FIRST. Pulled Stove from wall, Removed 5 screws to remove back plate. Unplugged 2 spade electrical connections. Unpluged temp. sensor plug. Opened oven door and removed 2 screws holding element to top of oven. removed screw holding temp probe to element. Installed the elment in the reverse order starting with the temp probe. when finished with install, I tested the unit before covering the back. I used a oven temp tester to make sure that when the element went out that the temp probe was not damaged. Everything checked out fine and I finished installing the back cover and putting stove in place. Cleaned up area and JOB DONE.
Removed the 2 screws on plate. Pulled wires forward. Simply detached slide on connecters and inserted new element. Pushed back and installed plate. Dont forget to unplug the 220 volt. Though open can ground wires.
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then I disconnected the two wires and pulled the element out. I ordered the part and received it within two days. It was very easy to install. My oven was tunning in less than half an hour.