pulled out the stove,,unhooked the power cord from outlet. I then pulled the control knob off and removed the the six screws from the back panel. I then removed the two screws the were under the knob and removed switch from panel..I unhooked the wires one at a time and rehooked them to the new switch,,pushed the switch back in the panel and installed the two screws. The knob was different from the shaft on the new switch so I took my dremel and contoured the shaft to fit my switch. I plugged the stove back into the outlet and it worked perfect..
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Ordered new part on-line for less than 1/2 of local price...including shipping. Local shop would have taken 10 days for part at twice the price. Mine arrived in 72 hours...and Sunday dinner was saved!
Inner glass of slide in range was cracked needed replaced
Removed door from Oven. removed screws from several components comprising the door and separated pieces. Removed broken glass. Prior to putting back together I took advantage of the convenience and used oven cleaner to clean inner portion of door. Installed new glass. Reassembled door.
I knew the lens (which also holds the light) was broken. I also ordered the light. I flipped the circuit breaker, raised the stove top and removed the 6 nut-head screws holding the cover plate. A nut driver would have been helpful, but I got by with a 6" crescent wrench. I removed the cover. I unplugged the two wires from the old light and plugged in the new one. I inserted the new lens and slipped the light over it. I flipped the circuit breaker on to make sure it worked. After flipping the circuit breaker off, I replaced the cover plates and the screws and lowered the stove top. I flipped the circuit breaker on. It worked!
The customer service rep was brilliant in finding the right part number! It was sent the following day (with email to let me know) The part itself was just exactly like the old one. I simply turned off the power, removed the 2 metal screws and unplugged the broken element. The new one fit properly and works like a million dollars. For about $50, you made me look like a hero in my own house! Thjank you
Turn off the power to the stove at the circuit breaker. I then loosened the two screws at the rear of the oven and gently pulled the heating elements toward the front of the oven. I found that if I worked the element in a circular motion, it was easier to remove. Once I pulled the element out far enough where the wire connectors were exposed (about 5 - 6 inches), I pulled the wire connectors off the element and reattached to the new element before reversing the whole process. After everything was back in place, I turned the circuit breaker back on and tested the oven, which worked perfectly.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Burner control was erratic. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.
First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.
Followed instructions on Kenmore site. One point of note. Hold onto the element wires firmly. They will retract behind the oven!!! After contacting an electrician friend who removed unit from the wall and rethreaded the wires, it went just fine.
Surface burner switch malfunction allowing the burner to remain on high heat after turning to low heat.
I removed two small screws located on the underside of the control panel. I then rotated the bottom of the control panel up and dislodged the few connections at top back of control panel. The control panel became loose enough to lay forward exposing the inner control switches. The old problem switch wiring was removed one by one and placed in the same spot on the new switch. The old switch was then removed by pulling off the front control knob and then unscrewing two screws holding the old switch in place. Then the new switch was installed exactly as the old switch was removed.
