Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
key pad shot an F-3 fault code bad oven sensor
ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
The repair was remarkably simple. Had i a nut driver, it would have been simpler still. Nonetheless, I managed to remove the nuts affixing the element to the back of the oven with a wrench, pulled out the old element, reattached the wires (they slipped in with ease), replaced the element, tightened the nuts and, presto, I was done. I suspect I saved over $100, though would rather my wife not know for fear it will be spent elsewhere;-)
bake element caught fire and turned to ash in a section
The entire element was replaced. Since the oven is proably older than me (about 30 years) the holes did not light up exactly so 2 new holes had to be drilled. It is working great now and I'm happy to find a part that works.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out disconnected the two wires. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THERE IS HARDLY ANY WIRE TO WORK WITH. Otherwise I would have been finished in ten minutes.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
The light socket cup could no longer hold the bracket that holds the light cover in place.
I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.
I pulled the old broiler from holding clamps. I unscrewed the 2 screws holding the old broiler, pulled it out very slowly while using clips to hold the wires from going back into the wall behind the oven. That’s very important, I then pulled the old broiler off and replaced the new one. First I secured the elements on the oven clips that hold the element up, I reattach the new element, screwed the 2 screws back in. DONE My grandson helped, total time, maybe 15 minutes. Watch their video. Really easy, save money.
Old broil element started burning with being on OFF position requiring need to turn off breaker and cut element in two to stop progression of burn
1. Turn breaker off at breaker box. 2.Disconnect old broil element. Pull electric wires out 3-4 inches from BACK of oven. Clamp wires or tie off so they do not retreat behind back oven wall. INSTALL wires to new element and secure back plate. Install NEW clamps to new element. Switch on breaker and check operation.
Be sure to flip the breaker to the oven to the OFF position before doing anything. Take out the two screws at the back of the oven that hold the element. Carefully pull the element forewarn to expose the connections to the wires. Disconnect the element from the wiring connectors. Be careful not to damage the connectors or the wiring. Plug the new element into the wiring connectors. Make sure you have the connections firmly in place. Push the wiring and connectors back into place. Replace the two screws. Make sure the element is resting in the spacers that keep it the correct distance from the top of the oven. Flip the breaker to the ON position, Turn the oven on Broil. The element should start turning a bright red. some fumes will come off the element. That is just oil from processing and handling. Your done!