7MMSL0100TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Watching videos identified what parts to purchase.
Once identified - WATCH EACH PARTS VIDEO (again).
Lessons learned:
1) better to NOT tilt the washer
2) watch (more than once) and learn from the videos
3) must difficult step was loosening the tub retaining nut without having a spanner wrench (used a hammer and a short / wide blade screwdriver)
4) ended up being the tub support was not sitting properly in the suspension plate
5) cleaned and changed parts while apart
6) running as good as new

Thanks!!

1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet.
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)

Ordered and replaced the sensor. Fairly simple. Washer runs good now. Thank you!

The switch just snapped out of the holding section and the new part was snapped back into its place. He put the top section back on and it worked! Being a woman not knowing anything about repairing machines, I thought it went very well. I just googled my problem with the washer, it sent me to this site saying what they thought was the problem, I live chatted with someone and they confirmed the solution. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days and my husband fixed it. And now I have a working washer again. Thank you for your site. Anne

Took an educated guess it was the lid switch and after playing with the switch got it to work. Ordered new switch. The hard part was to find the model number and thanks to customer service sticking with we. we found the info and was able to come up with a part number. Re placing the switch is very easy but I had to remove the cast after trying to open the machine the wrong way. So a little body work. I also found the frame was cracked and with a fender washer on the other side of the front feet was able to fix that. Washer run great a lot is a lot quieter.THANKS!!

I decided to order the part and attempt to install it. Actually was easy. Took my time and maybe took 90 minutes. Works great.

Same as described on your video. Very simple

Unplug the washer. Used flat blade screwdriver under each end of the control housing on top of the machine. This popped the spring clips and allowed the control housing to be lifted up and rotated out of the way. Once out of the way, lift clip on wiring harness to lid switch, then pull the harness off. Use nutdriver to remove screw holding ground wire in place. Open lid of the machine. Pinch tab on back of the lid switch and rotate the switch up and out of the machine. Insert the new switch in the same manner, making sure that the machine lid remains open until the switch snaps into place. Attach ground wire using screw removed earlier and nutdriver. Clip wiring harness back in place. Close the lid and then rotate the control housing downward, and press on both ends to re-engage the spring clips which hold it down.

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

Open washer console by sliding your hand inside over the drum. There are two clips at each corner of the console. There are videos that show you how. The right clip is freely accessible. Reach behind a notch to get to the left clip. Squeeze clips to release.

Once console is open, use pliers to pull the knob shaft from inside the console. This will release the old knob. Attach new knob and secure the console.

Very easy replacement. The new hose was more like a formed radiator hose and fit exactly.
Removed two screws at rear of control panel and separated the rear cabinet panel from the front cabinet enough to get to the water valve. I then disconnected the break hose from the valve by compressing the spring clamp. I then disconnected the other end from the washer water inlet by also releasing another spring clamp.
The new hose was installed using the same clamps. The cabinet was reassembled and washer tested for leaks.

Unplugged the electrical plug and turned off the water. Used putty knife to remove control box. Unplugged the washer lid switch. Used screwdriver to remove clips to washer cover. Removed cover out of the way. Removed clips that hold the drain hose on the washer frame. Used Pliers to open the clip that holds the drain hose on the discharge pump. (You will need to re-use this clip) Removed the bad drain hose. Installed new hose with clip to discharge pump. Clipped in new drain hose to the washer frame. Re-installed washer cover and re-clipped brackets. Re-plugged lid switch and re-installed the washer control box. Turned on the water and energized the washer. Ran a test load and checked for leaks.

We had to take the motor off and find the part that holds the spring, took longer to fix as we are older people and took a brake after every spring. We used YouTube videos to help us I am thankful for this site and cheap prices.