7MMGP0070VM0 Dryer - Instructions

I watched the installation video. It was exactly as shown.

opened dryer up completely. Vacuumed and toweled out the interior of the dryer to reduce any opportunity for fire or smell. Saw the seals we worn. Checked with Partselect users to see what symptoms were present for the items. Decided since I had it open to replace the seals and the belt along with the coils. Glad I did. Runs more quietly and efficiently now. Money and time well spent.

My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching

I watched the wonderful you tube video, and realized my whirlpool dryer was a bit different than the one used as an example. I first unplugged my dryer. I didn't need the putty knife because I had to take the sides off the top part of dryer that housed all the wires. I just needed a small Phillips head screwdriver for that. There were three screws holding the top of the dryer down, and i took those off with a small socket. Then I just slid the top of the dryer forward, took the top completely off, and there was the door switch on the upper left side. I unscrewed the switch from the dryer because I couldn't get it apart until I did. That was the hardest part of the whole process--pullining the switch apart. I used a flat head screwdriver and pliers to help separate it. At that point, I went online and ordered the door switch from Part Select. I received my part within two days. I put the new switch in, and it worked great--my dryer light also came back on when the new switch was installed. This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this, but after seeing the video, I felt like I could do it. Just for the record...I am a female and 65!

Initially bought a few parts based on past experience without testing first....my mistake. After testing and purchasing the correct parts the dryer works fine. This is by far the best DIY web site I've ever used and recommend it highly. If you can follow online instructions, this is the way to go....it saves $$$ on service calls.

I followed most of the directions as explained in the online video and what came with the parts. Had to give the glue a little extra time to dry than the directions specified, but that was probably because of the amount of glue I put on the rear seal.

My dryer all of a sudden stopped tumbling. When I opened up the machine, it turns out that the drive belt was broken. I simply put in the model number in PartSelect.com and found this kit that came with the belt, and drum rollers. The belt fixed the tumbling issue, and after replacing the rollers, the machine is as quite as a mouse! The instructional video helped show me exactly what to do and expect. This was my first time fixing an appliance, and it only took me 45 minutes!

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"

I had my laptop next to me and paused the tutorial video
as I did each step to chnage the drum rollers, idler pully and belt. Dryer runs great with no more screeching!

The video from your website is exactly the steps I followed to remove the old door switch 3 wire and install the new one. Very easy! NOTE: 1 Week before the dryer totally stopped working, my mother opened the dryer door when it finished (sound alert) but, the dryer was still spinning + the light did not come on. I noticed that the small black lever (part of the door switch wire which sticks out & presses against the door when the door is closed) was extremely loose. It seemed as if the lever was broken (perhaps the last time I used the dryer the door slipped from my hand and broke the black piece). Video tutorial was great!

I watched a video from Parts Select and learned that most problems with gas dryers revolve around two things: a broken door switch and a burnt fuse. I knew my door switch was broken. So I figured out how to lift the top of the dryer (unscrew two bolts in the back and two screws under the lint screen) and pry the hood open.) The switch was right there, held in place by two screws in the door frame. I received the part I ordered the next day, on the simple ground delivery. I replaced the door switch, closed the lid, tighten everything down. Problem solved for $15!

Remove Lint filter remove two screws that hold lint trap to top of dryer.Use putty knife to push on two top clips that hold top of dryer down on body of dryer.Lift top and locate door wire that go to switch,romove two screws that hold switch unplug three prong connector plug in new switch and reverse disassembly instructions.

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

I followed video instructions. Raised the top, slipped off the front, installed the belt, aligned, installed tension part, reinstalled front, lowered the top and inserted lint trap. Job done. Quick and easy. The video was the key to the whole project.

This was my first dryer repair. The only difficulty I had was figuring out how the belt tensioner was set up with the belt. The old belt broke so I didn't know how it was suppose to work. Anyway, it took a few minute to figure out that one end of the bracket was a "spring" that allowed it to flex a long ways! Pretty easy job.