Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No Power to the Oven
Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.
Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.
Sensor probe was not sebding proper temp to themostat which regulate the 2 heating elements.
This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.
open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.
removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range
Pull out stove. Unplug power. Remove four screws on each corner and loosen one screw in the middle. Remove back panel. Locate and unplug sensor connector. Remove one screw from sensor plate. Turn the sensor 45 degrees and pull sensor out from the rear. Connector received had the incorrect plug and terminals so it was necessaary to splice the connector from the one removed to the one received. Cut and splice wires as necessary. Install sensor, install back panel, plug in electrical power, push stove back into position. I used a temperature gauge to check temperature after stove was in position. In my case the temperature had to be adjusted which is a keyboard function on this unit.
Removed broken element, four screws. Element ends were attached to the oven via wire clips. Removed those too. Placed clips on the ends of the new element and remounted to the top of the oven enclosure with the fours screens. Took twenty to twenty five minutes. We had Tbones a little while later. Saved over 125.00 for repairman.
Unscrewed the old element (2) screws, then unscrewed the (2) brackets holding the element up, pulled the element out of the back wall of the oven unhooked the (2) electrical wires and left them hanging. Installation is in the exact reverse order.
oven would turn on and stay on regardless of set point
Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the unit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!
Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)
First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.
Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.