First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
Old element connections different from new element
Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center portion was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.
Followed on-line instructions to remove the defective heating element. Some connection tabs on the replacement unit were different than the original. One tab was too wide to accept the stove's slip-on wire connector without fling down the tab width on the heating element. Thanks to some on-line instructions, wire connections to element 1a and 2a had to be reversed. If not for those instructions I would probably have ended up sending the unit back to the supplier, as an incorrect replacement !
Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief: 1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood. 2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four). 2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that. 2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it! 3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot. 3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong. 3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch. 3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob. 4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four. 5) Replace the cover. 6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced the back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
Replaced switch by according to video with no issues, Terminals were nearly identical as the new switch.
The terminals on the new burner were not located in the same position as the terminals on the old burner. I had to reference the wiring diagram to locate the correct wire to terminal location. There was not enough slack in the wires to position the new burner in the same position as the old burner. I had to rotate the new burner so the wires would reach. This cause me to have to rotate the warming burner because rotating the new burner, the terminals interfered with the terminals on the warming burner. I also had to reposition some of the wires so they would not contact the burner and terminals.
With no install instructions (NOT good for diy-ers), looked through reviews and watched video for help. Replacement part - not same as original. Had to use magnifying glass to id the terminals / take a picture before disassembly. reassembled - found out terminals are different & black wire is too short. Took off element - rotated the clips one number counter clockwise, reassembled - removed black wire from harness for extra reach. Hooked up, lowered top for test. power on - everything OK. Power off - complete assembly. Power on - test. Seems to be good. When I called customer service for assistance because there was no instruction, they told me I should contact a local appliance repair person. (big joke).
