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my burners would just heat up solid red even when i had controls turned down to 2 or 3. i would have to turn controls off and back on, then they still would just go back to glowing red
This was my first time ever working with electrical issues. My husband is not physically able to do repairs now. Very easy fix. Just viewed video repair instructions and it went exactly as instructed. Within 45 minutes, I had my stove repaired and cleaned and back in working order!! Great results. My range is working perfectly again and Mama is happy!!
The switch wasn't working on all the different settings.
first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
The part I ordered has 5 connections and the part to be replaced has 7 connections. I had to ask a friend who is expert in electrical wiring to help.
My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections. Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
Lenses wore down and broke off making the actual indicator lights fall down behind the control panel since the lights connect to the lens.
Pulled stove out and unplugged it. Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel. Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others. Replace back cover. Plug stove back in and slide back into place. There are you tube videos out there to help you.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Remove two back knurled screws, lift out old bottom, screw in new bottom panel. Removal of oven door (two flip out handles at hinge( makes this a little easier. Our oven did not need any other dis-assembly.
The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from. The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts. Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.
Surface element would stay on high no matter the position of selector knob
First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.
