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Right rear burner not working properly
After a brief discussion with CS about the electric stove part was shipped it arrived and I proceeded to install I found it needed to be installed sideways not up & down like the old one. The terminals did not line up so I put the black lead first and the purple lead last in doing that I burned out the switch??? was not easy to install as the video showed his switch matched each wire? My installation was sideways??
Old part was replaced by mfg’r. Wiring different. No drawings or any info was included to show wiring.
I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.
my burners would just heat up solid red even when i had controls turned down to 2 or 3. i would have to turn controls off and back on, then they still would just go back to glowing red
This was my first time ever working with electrical issues. My husband is not physically able to do repairs now. Very easy fix. Just viewed video repair instructions and it went exactly as instructed. Within 45 minutes, I had my stove repaired and cleaned and back in working order!! Great results. My range is working perfectly again and Mama is happy!!
Lenses wore down and broke off making the actual indicator lights fall down behind the control panel since the lights connect to the lens.
Pulled stove out and unplugged it. Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel. Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others. Replace back cover. Plug stove back in and slide back into place. There are you tube videos out there to help you.
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
The part I ordered has 5 connections and the part to be replaced has 7 connections. I had to ask a friend who is expert in electrical wiring to help.
My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections. Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from. The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts. Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
Remove two back knurled screws, lift out old bottom, screw in new bottom panel. Removal of oven door (two flip out handles at hinge( makes this a little easier. Our oven did not need any other dis-assembly.
I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.
Unscrew the 2 screws at the back of the oven bottom pan in the range. Place new oven pan in and rescrew the 2 screws. I could not get the two screws screwed back in. Since the bottom pan cannot move from its position, I felt like the two screws were not necessary.
