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Range would not come on
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe. I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up. the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires. After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
Switch Was Making A Arcing Sound When Burner Was On
Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range
Bake element(bottom element) melted through, would not turn off until breaker shut off.
Pulled stove away from wall until I could access behind it. Disconnected power source, used nut driver to remove 7 small hex screws with nut driver, from back cover, slide down and away. Disconnect two wire( 1 from each end of element). Open oven door, remove all shelves, remove two screws inside oven on back wall, pull out old element. Guide in new element(gently guide each end through access holes in back of oven, line unscrew holes with retaining clips, insert screws. Place racks back in oven. Reattach back panelnwith 7 screws, plug power source back in. Slide oven back into place. Done.
I disconnected power cord. Removed cooking racks. Removed element mounting screws. Removed back panel and removed wires on both ends. Pulled element out put new one in and bolted down. Reconnected wires. Put rear cover on. Plugged in and checked for correct opreation. OK!
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
In a seasonal house, a mouse got into the oven insulation during the winter. We have gotten rid of the mouse but when we used the oven we could smell mouse urine! Upon inspection we could see that the mouse lived and urinated in the oven insulation.
My husband removed the screws that held the top of the stove on and then lifted the top up. It is hinged. He then took out the old insulation, wiped down all visible parts of the interior with a bleach solution and replaced the blanket insulation with the new insulation. That took care of the problem!
i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.
My husband removed the old one in a few minutes, the just popped the new one in when it came. Not for nothing, (where we purchased the stove) wanted $67 for the same part you all charged $49.00
Old element connections different from new element
Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center portion was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.