79090801406 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Pulled stove away from wall until I could access behind it. Disconnected power source, used nut driver to remove 7 small hex screws with nut driver, from back cover, slide down and away. Disconnect two wire( 1 from each end of element). Open oven door, remove all shelves, remove two screws inside oven on back wall, pull out old element. Guide in new element(gently guide each end through access holes in back of oven, line unscrew holes with retaining clips, insert screws. Place racks back in oven. Reattach back panelnwith 7 screws, plug power source back in. Slide oven back into place. Done.

I disconnected power cord. Removed cooking racks. Removed element mounting screws. Removed back panel and removed wires on both ends. Pulled element out put new one in and bolted down. Reconnected wires. Put rear cover on. Plugged in and checked for correct opreation. OK!

Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.

When we bought our home less than a year ago, we had three functional burners on our 40" wide 50's classic Kelvinator (not close to standard size these-a-days). After a few months of use, two more burners went out for good and we were stuck using the back left burner for all of our cooking. I opted for the premium burners and made sure to compare my terminals with the ones online to be sure they mounted the same. I removed the burners and terminals, clipped the wires going into the terminals, and removed the top of the stove. I followed the directions that came with the new terminals, pushed in the new burners and viola! All four burners now work. I gave the stove a general cleaning and now my 1954 Kelvinator looks and cooks like it is brand new. It was easily the best $109 I've spent on my home.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff

order pcs fit perfect.

My husband removed the screws that held the top of the stove on and then lifted the top up. It is hinged. He then took out the old insulation, wiped down all visible parts of the interior with a bleach solution and replaced the blanket insulation with the new insulation. That took care of the problem!

TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE

I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly.
I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.

removed old terminal block . cut wires and spliced new terminal block and insulated with shrink wrap. Very eazy

Slide out the old; slide in the new!