75546 - Instructions

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Removed the large freezer drawer bin. Took out the 2 screws holding the door to the rail, pulled drawer off the rails and set it aside. Note: the drawer still has the non-sliding part of the rail assembly attached to it. Reached inside the freezer and pushed the tab holding each of the rails and slide out the old rails. Removed the bolts on the freezer door holding the remaining part of the rail assembly (The white part). Attached the complete rail assembly to each side of the freezer drawer. Inserted the drawer and newly attached rails into the slots holding the rail. Slid the drawer in which allowed the rails to slide over the holding tabs. Checked door for in / out sliding easy and inserted the large bin back into the unit. I had purchased the full L & R rail assembly.

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock

Followed instructions online

Food off top of shelf, drawers come out, glass tops come off, lift the whole unit up (can be a little heavy. Tilt sideways to angle past doors (remove door's lower bins as needed by removing food and lifting up). Turn upside down, remove 3 screws from metal rod and remove metal rod (may require prying out with screwdriver). Remove textured plastic top pieces from each side; some flexing is required to get one side up, then the other. Remove two hinged drawer covers by pinching in at their hinge points.

This is your last chance to clear all the walls, floor, and ledges at the bottom of your fridge. Just sayin'.

Put new shelf upside down on counter. Transfer metal rod to new shelf, screw it in. Transfer hinged drawer covers. Transfer textured plastic topic pieces, again putting one side (of each) in first and flexing unit a little to get other side in. Turn right side up and angle back into refrigerator.

Bring shelf flat and push to the back of the refrigerator until it is flush with the back. Lower whole unit until it rests on top of the side rails where drawers slide in. Left side has a tongue that will fit into a 2" or so notch near the front, right side will rest on top of a round bumper. Front coldness control should still operate smoothly. Put drawers in to make sure they glide and close smoothly. Put glass shelf on top and press down lightly to make sure lower shelf is stable and glass fits neatly into its plastic frame. Replace any door bins you removed.

Ta da!

The 2 minute or so video was not exactly matching the model that we had but the instructions were very good and important. The switch was a little difficult to get out from the side of the refrigerator.

Replaced a new shelf