6AMTW5855TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unplug the washer. Used flat blade screwdriver under each end of the control housing on top of the machine. This popped the spring clips and allowed the control housing to be lifted up and rotated out of the way. Once out of the way, lift clip on wiring harness to lid switch, then pull the harness off. Use nutdriver to remove screw holding ground wire in place. Open lid of the machine. Pinch tab on back of the lid switch and rotate the switch up and out of the machine. Insert the new switch in the same manner, making sure that the machine lid remains open until the switch snaps into place. Attach ground wire using screw removed earlier and nutdriver. Clip wiring harness back in place. Close the lid and then rotate the control housing downward, and press on both ends to re-engage the spring clips which hold it down.

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

The video was well made and made repair easy. I like the fact the video also showed how everything went back. The most difficult part and most time consuming for me was putting the washer cabinet or housing back on. I had a hard time lining the sides onto the slot to lock in place....the minor cut on finger sustained during the process was worth it. It saved me from buying a new washer and the whole family are happy that they don't have to wring out the clothes before putting it the dryer. Thank you!

Unplugged the electrical plug and turned off the water. Used putty knife to remove control box. Unplugged the washer lid switch. Used screwdriver to remove clips to washer cover. Removed cover out of the way. Removed clips that hold the drain hose on the washer frame. Used Pliers to open the clip that holds the drain hose on the discharge pump. (You will need to re-use this clip) Removed the bad drain hose. Installed new hose with clip to discharge pump. Clipped in new drain hose to the washer frame. Re-installed washer cover and re-clipped brackets. Re-plugged lid switch and re-installed the washer control box. Turned on the water and energized the washer. Ran a test load and checked for leaks.

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

We had to take the motor off and find the part that holds the spring, took longer to fix as we are older people and took a brake after every spring. We used YouTube videos to help us I am thankful for this site and cheap prices.

Based on all the other info here, I thought "ah-ha! I need to replace the clutch assembly". So I ordered the part, it came the next day (to Vermont, even!) and started to disassemble the agitator, motor, etc. just as shown in the video. I don't think I would have attempted it if it had not been for the video. It made the process seem very straightforward and easy, as long as you are comfortable using a socket set.

That said, there were some fairly minor differences between my machine and the one in the video, so your repair might differ a little. First of all, I did not need one of those spanners / tub wrenches (whatever they called it in the video-- the thing he hit with the sledge hammer) to take off that nut under the agitator. I didn't need to remove it, and the drive axle just pulled right out. Second, you really don't need to remove the motor mount. Just take the motor off, and then go right to removing the three bolts on the transmission.

Actually, my problem turned out to be NOT the clutch assembly, but the little plastic gear things that go between the motor and the transmission, fitting into that rubber ring thing. I lifted the motor off and one of them was sitting there in pieces! You can easily order this part, and it's even easier to install than the clutch assembly. The plastic pieces are reinforced with metal now, which seems like a good idea.

All in all, this was a fun little project, and now I am under the (probably false) impression that I can repair any problem with washing machines!

Old one fell off in my hands. I just snapped the new one in its place. Super easy. Repairman wanted $43 for the part plus the labor of $39. THe part cost me just $20 with shipping. Thanks!

The old seal had become brittle, cracked and fragmented and would no longer fit in the slot. Without it, washing had become a real mess. I took the new seal and snapped it in within a few seconds and was back up and running again. I looked everywhere for this seal, but this site was the only place I could find it. Thanks for having such a wide range of parts. This inexpensive broken part had made my machine unusuable. If it were not for you, I probably would have to resorted to a Sears appliance technician who would have charged $60 for just showing up.

I removed the torn part which just pulled off of the lid and snapped in the new piece. No tools were needed. I also wanted to add that it was great doing business with Part Select. The part came well packaged, it came in a timely manner, and it was the correct part ! I will try Part Select for any of my future repair part needs.
Thank you

removed the top cover (with all the knobs on it) by releasing the holds in the back
removed the screw holding the lid in place
pinched the snap and removed the part

pinched the snap on the new one and seated in in the hole
screwed in the screw (lol)
turned on the washer

Removed housing, using pry bar lifted plate used screwdriver removed wear pads one at a time. inserted new ones and snapped into place. Did not have to remove tub. Be sure pry bar does not slip and you pinch your fingers. Machine works just fine know.

Watched your video and it was right on so helpful it made my job easy.

The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?

Went on-line for help.found parts select website.referred to your service videos.discovered solution to problem.bought proper part.arrived in excellent condition.watched another video for how to install the part.completed repair in about one hour.washer operating back to normal again. this site is a one stop answer/parts shop. thank you .