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replaced heating element on flat surface stove top
I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.
This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it. Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.
I removed two retainer screws which released the outside panel. Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets. The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly. Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.
First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher. Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve. Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket. Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots. Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting). Six: Remove two wire clips Seven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp) Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor. Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
Dishwasher Quit Running On The Pressure Side (Pump Motor Went Bad).
Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. Turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. Slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, it all works just like new.
Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.
Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.
Stopped Running,Will Not Start, and Clean LED Blinks 7 times then repeats
Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem Removed access plate Disconnectd water and drain Removed anchor screws Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric Flipped on it's back Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance Ordered and received Part Changed out Thermisitor Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections Hooked electric up Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault Hooked back up and ran like a champ
The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem
The overhead water spinner became detached and fell off
First I removed the screw from the top water tube and then the upper screw from the vertical water tube at the back of the dishwasher. That gave enough flex to the tube assembly for access to the area I needed to get to, without having to remove it. Then I removed the old spinner retainer and installed the new one. I then snapped the spinner to the new retainer pin, put the tube back into position, and re-installed the screws -- and I was done.
We recently installed all new stainless steel appliances, and were considering replacing the dishwasher as well (4 yr. old Kenmore, in good condition, energy star compliant, etc.). We decided to try to find a stainless front panel instead, and Kenmore said for that model they only came in black and white. But after calling Parts Select, they cross indexed our Kenmore model with a Whirlpool model that did come in stainless, and we simply ordered that front panel. The panel fit perfectly, only requiring the removal of 10 screws, and taking the insulation foam from the old panel and installing it in the new, then replacing the screws. Very simple, and economical, fix for our problem. Thanks Parts Select!
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor. Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
Thanks to the previous review of this part, I was able to figure out how to do the replacement myself and saving $150 on a service call. The part is super easy to replace. Remove the screws on the door, lift the outside piece of the door up and off the hinges and then unplug the old piece. I had turned off the electricity to the dishwasher to avoid getting shocked. There were 4 hex nut screws holding the part in, removed those & popped out the old part. Installed the new one, put the door back on and the screws, turned it on and no leaks. This part was so easy to replace, even for a 52 year old woman like myself!
