66598003701 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Repair would have only taken minutes, but upper support plate screws were rusted and almost fused to the plate. Once the plate screws were out (had to pry plate out) installation was done in 3-5 minutes.

As for the replacement part, worked perfect on the first try. Very happy with price, speed of delivery and preformance.

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!

Turned off breaker to oven, removed racks, unscrewed the plate holding the element in place, and pulled out the wires a few inches. All easy and fine to this point. Never having done anything like this before, I wasn't sure HOW the element was attached to the wires, so tugged on them a bit, but nothing budged. Got a flashlight (it got dark in there with the upper part of my body in there)looked again, but still couldn't tell. Referred to this site and saw reports of "plug and play", went back and examined the ends more closely on old and new element, realized that they slide straight on and straight off in a "sleeve". Got some pliars and pulled the ends apart. Slid the new end on to one wire, but couldn't get the other one on until I realized I had crushed it a bit with the pliars. Reopened the "sleeve" with a vegetable knife and slid the other end of the element into the "sleeve" at the end of the wire. Then pushed the wires back in and screwed plate on. It took about 23 minutes, and that included time to look up this site and do some reading, jump up to find a flashlight, and jump up and find a pair of pliars. My hubby was out of town for 3 weeks and suggested I wait til he got home--glad I didn't wait.

took off nobs, pulled stove out 2 inches to access front side screws,( has 1 philip screw on each side end and four nut screws under panel) pulled panel out and flipped forward and down, all switches exposed and took apart broken switch and installed new switch(PAY ATTENTION TO WIRING PATTERN), reverse order for install back. bingo!

PULLED THE POWER CORD!! Loosened a couple of screws holding the element to the rear oven wall, removed the electrical wires (red on left, yellow on right) attached to the baking element, removed old element, inserted new element and reattached the wires respectively thereto. One minor glitch did occur. The RED wire inadvertently slipped back through the hole into the insulation and was not retrievable. I removed the small metal plate housing the wires on the back bottom of the stove, pushed the red wire (plentiful length) back into the oven, reinstalled the plate, connected the red wire to the bake element, reconnected the power, element began to heat. Mission accomplished. One caution: Pay attention to the SHAPE of the failed element before ordering online or buying in person.

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.

See description listed as problem

Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.

the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.

To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.

Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.

After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.

Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.