49-2551-00-01 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

Removed access door. Disengaged spring, removed old idler. Slipped belt around new idler and motor pulley. Difficulty is putting spring back and inserting idler pulley bracket back in place while there is a lot of tension from the belt. Finally used adjustable wrench as a mini hammer.

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

Open the top cover by pushing the retention clips in from the front (just under the top edge) with the putty knife - that was the hardest to figure out - I found it online.
The rest is just 4 screws - 2 inside to release the plastic filter holder and two on the inner edges of the front panel.
Took the front off, ripped the old slider, cleaned the glue residue with alcohol and mineral spirits and a lot of scrubbing, vacuumed all the lint from the fan.
Then glued the new slider in place and clamped it together. Didnt know how long the glue takes so I left it overnight, just in case.
It works well now. Cleaning the ducts and the fan with the vacuum hose made a world of an efficiency difference. They should make an easy way to do this for regular maintenance!

First I removed power from dryer. Then I lifted the lid and removed the 2 screws holding the front onto the dryer. I then used a pair of pliers to grip the seal and help pull it off. Cleaned off old adhesive. Recommend getting GOOP BE GONE. Then apply high temp sealant onto area and place seal on top. Press firmly across it to make sure it is in place. Then put it all back together and your done. Also, if upper seal is worn.recommend ordering lower seal at same time. I didn't and should have. Save yourself from doing this twice.

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

Watched video sent to me after I purchased belt on line. Super helpful!

I replaced the drum kit and belt.

I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.

Open the back plate. Broken pulley was already out of place. Put the spring on the pulley and placed it. It took me less than 10 min

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

Unhooked power,shut off gas, pulled top cover off,two Philips screws one on each side hold the front panel in.took belt off, pulled drum,than change out, flame sensor,M coils,and igniter,be careful igniter breaks very easy,I broke my new one so had to use my old one so really the problem with no heat was either the Mcoils or the flame sensor