3UMTW5755TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

As per partsselect.

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

I just unscrewed the top agitator cap and slid the o-ring on and put it back. Done in seconds.

Replaced the clutch, works like a dream...easy to install & the best part was..that I had the part within 2days standard mail..thanks parts select!!

from Missouri

EXACTLY as per instruction. Only trouble was getting cabinet re- installed properly. Bottom tangs were deformed and not catching. First rate parts and instruction! Thanks for making it possible. KL Lowery

Watched video instructions and replaced the clutch like I've been doing it for years. The repair took about 30 minutes. The video was extremely helpful !!!!

All I had to do was follow the instructions on your web site and it was pretty easy.. The only reason it took so long was because my washer is in a spot hard to get to... I had to remove the dryer to get to the washer and then take it out of the laundry room to work on it. Other than the time it took to do that the actual repair only took 40 minutes. Your video of the repair was excellent... Thanks so much.. Saved at least $500 by replacing the clutch...

It suprised me how much water came out of the machine when I tipped the machine on it's back. I needed a short pan or bowl to catch the water. The hardest part was installing that c-shaped spring.

I just watched the video but I didn't take the sides of I just laid it on its back and worked from the bottom. it works like a new.

Removed the bolt holding the agitator and then tipped the washer on its side and remove the water pump from the motor before removing the motor/agitator assembly. Take the retainer clip from the shaft and the retainer spring from the clutch.

The hardest part was figuring out what the problem was. The washer wouldn't spin so the clothes were really wet at the end of the cycle.
First I removed the agitator, because a screw connects the agitator to the shaft.
Next I put the washer on it's front.
Disconnected the water pump clips and pulled it off the motor shaft.
Electrically disconnected the motor (make sure you unplug the washer before starting)
Removed 3 bolts holding the gear case and motor.
Then I pulled the gear case and motor out the bottom, the shaft is about two feet long and the clutch comes with it.
Replace the clutch and put the shaft back where it belongs. Make sure the clutch spring doesn't bump against the plastic brake thing, it will stop you from pushing the shaft all the way in.
Pushing the gear case and motor assy the last inch and aligning the holes for the bolts was the hardest part. The bolts aren't long enough to grab the threaded hole, so you have to get it perfectly aligned. After about a half-hour of fighting it, I finally used a hammer and lightly tapped it into place.
Just put everything back together in the reverse order.

removed agitator bolt from trans shaft
turned wachine on its back
removed 3 trans bolts-wires from clip-2 hoses
removed motor & trans from machine
removed locks that hold clutch
changed clutch
re assembled

my son did the repair

As best described in the clutch DIYs, removed the enclosure, unclipped the water pump, motor and elec. harness to check the coupling. The bushing separated from the plastic fingers which caused the squealing. Checked the gearbox and it turned for a limited amount before jamming. Ordered new gearcase and clutch (since it was over 10 yrs. old.), and a coupling. (Gearcase comes with half a coupling, so check if req'd for motor shaft.)
For ease of removing and re-installing the motor it is best the machine lays on its back. This way the grommets and coupling can be easily aligned on the face-plate without having to manually support the weight of the motor. In the tub, unsnap two agitator caps. The inner one has no tabs to break so pry and pull on the "ears". Use 7/16" socket wrench with extension to unscrew the bolt holding agitator to gear shaft end. Assuming the motor and face-plate are still off, unscrew the three screws holding the gearcase in place and slide it out. Before installing the new clutch onto the new gear shaft, slide the plastic thrust spacer? (in kit but not shown in any instructions) down the shaft, observing which is the correct side. Check for correct clutch spring, as per instructions. Slide clutch, open side up, down the shaft. Instal wire retainer (this can be tricky) and circlip. if the brake assembly slid down while sliding out the gear shaft, squeeze its spring with a pipe wrench and push it back up (with rubber mallet). The clutch kit comes with a plastic pawl? which mounts under the brake and mates with the clutch. If the locating pins for the old part are broken off, drill them out of their holes so the new part fits snug. Insert the gear shaft up the brake sleeve into the agitator so their splines mate. Screw gear case to its mounts, agitator to shaft end (not too tight here) and snap on caps. Screw on face-plate, replace coupling on motor shaft (if req'd.), set motor on face-plate, aligning the coupling and checking the grommets fit in their holes. Instal motor holding clips (with screws), mount water pump with its holding clips, and wire harnesses. Stand up machine and replace enclosure, back panel and hoses.
Replacing the gearcase was easy. Because of space limitations, removing and replacing the enclosure, etc. was a b**** that took most of my time. And watch the lid doesn't fall on your fingers!

removed the controll panel,removed back. ,and then top ,and sides. pryed top off adjtater take out bolt in center ,remove top ring of outer tud,remove adjatater and large nut and coller,take off drain hose lift out outer tub and seal,. put new seal in new tub install in reverse order . hardest part was geting sides lined up