3RLSQ8533JQ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

On my Whirlpool washing machine I first pulled off the top cap piece of the agitator. No clips it just popped off.
Second I reached down inside the agitator and pulled straight up on a dome-shaped piece that was a little difficult to get out but it has two metal handles that allowed me to hook my fingers around it. Once I pulled hard enough it came out.
Third I used my left hand to hold the base of the agitator still while using a socket to break lose the big nut down inside the agitator. After getting the nut off I pulled straight up on the base of the agitator and pulled the whole unit out of the washer. Here's where I got stuck. I wasted about 45min trying to pry open the little plastic tabs down inside the agitator that hold the cam in place. What I finally did that I should have tried first to step on the base with both feet and pull up hard on the agitator cylinder (that has the spiral fins on it) at it popped off and popped off the cam at the same time. After that reassembling everything with the new cam was straight forward (just reversing all the steps).
I hope this helps you.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

First I removed the top of the agitator and then used a socket and ratchet to unscrew the bolt and put the new one on and tightened up the bolt, real easy.

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.

Removed the softerner dispenser and the inner cap and seal. Removed the mounting bolt. Pulled on Auger and entire agitator came out. I needed to separate the parts. It said to stand on the bottom and pull on the top. I am an "older" woman and after wrestling with it for an hour without success I waited for my nephew to come by to separate the two pieces. When he did, it popped apart and all the parts went flying. Poor guy thought he had broken it. After conviencing him that that was what I wanted it to do, he left. Dirrections weren't very clear as to what went on first and I didn't have the convience of seeing it before it flew apart. Finally put it together and replaced the bolt. To no avail, something was wrong. My sister was making the same repair at her house across the street so we double teamed it. She came over and told me that I needed to put the Bottom agitator in the machine, then the spacer thrust, then the auger, then the assembled cam and cam dogs, then the bolt. All went well and was working.......so we thought. Started a washer load and the washer started leaking water. Don't know why, still don't know why. All I did was remove everything, put it back the very same way, and it hasn't leaked since. Go figure!

Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remove black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...

Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.

Removed bolt in center of agitator then slid agitator straight up and out replaced the dogs and the other parts that came with the cam kit i also replaced a few of the other parts that wear in the agitator ,you can actually re-cut the teeth on the dogs with a razor so that they will work again ,but new parts are very reasonably priced and the parts arrived very quickly the next day .

Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.

First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.

first I removed the fabric softner and water seal from center of agitator, then I removed the bolt holding it on. All I had to do then is install new agitator with old bolt place water seal and fabric softner container back on and start washing clothes again. Very simple.

Repair was easy enough by just unlocking the tab and twisting the switch out from under the control panel. For me though, this did not fix my overflowing issue. After more research I found the inlet valve needed to be cleaned out.
I respect that electrical parts are non-returnable as I am in the auto parts business.

I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.

First I went to this site and read what everyone had to say on leaking pumps. After finding the model number, I looked at the parts list, and found what parts I thought I would need. First I shut off the water and unpluged the washer Replacing the water pump was very easy after reading what other people had done. I pulled the washer out from the wall about 18 inches and tilted back on a 45 degree angle. The pump was now in plain sight and helt in with two slide clamps. Using a pair of plyers I remover both clamps from both hoses on the pump. By pushing to the outside of the pump I was able to remove both of the slide clamps. This allows the pump to be lifted out and off the motor shaft. As my washer had just started leaking " about one week" the pump slid off the shaft easy. There was no rust on shaft. Pump shaft has a slot in it so the pump can only go on one way. By reversing the way I removed the pump I was able to slide the new pump back onto the shaft and slide the slip clamps back over the pump. Replacing both hoses and both clamps. Now pump was in place. I pulled the washer away from the wall and slid back into place. That took care of the pump. For the top side I removed the top part of the agitator by pulling up and removing the part that holds the softner. Under this was a piece of plastic that I was able to lift out. Under that was a 12MM bolt with a rubber washer. Using a scoket set I removed the bolt and washer. Lifting up on the agitator it came right out. Pulling on each end of the agitator I was able to pull it apart. Inside was a large plastic washer and agitator directional cogs all in one piece. This piece just lifts up and off. I replaced the old piece with the new on and slid the two agitator back togeather. Setting the agitator back into the washer and put the 12mm bold and rubber washer back on. Then I put the plastic back on and set the top softer cup back in place. Snapping in the bleach dispenser was very easy, just shap into place. Pluging the washer back in, and turning back on the water I ran the washer with no clothes in it so I could check for leaks and make sure everthing was working. Repairing both parts took about 30 minutes and now the washer is like new.