364 - Instructions

TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.

Found burned Defrost timer contacts.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

I removed the two mounting screws then pulled the element forward and disconnected the two element screws. I reversed the process to install the new one/ this oven is over 30yrs old.

1. Moved oven from the wall.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug from new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.

If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.

Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.

Kimberly, El Cerrito, California

I took the broken part off the bar, put the new part on the bar, snapped it into the fridge, threw the old part out, opened the fridge admired my work, while I was ther I grabbed a beer....couldnt have gone better.

I ordered new ones The came really fast. One was broken . My exchange was handled with great speed and excellent customer care.

The most obbious suspect is the upper oven fan. Turned off power circuit breaker. Removed two philip screws at top of control panel and lowered the panel. Using the 3D view of the oven on this web site I located the fan limit switch. Jumpered the limit switch. Turned power on and the fan ran. That proved the switch was defective and not the fan. Replaced the limit I purchased from Partselect.com.

Please note* My life career was electrical. I used the schematic that came with the oven to determine that the limit was the only control between one of the 240 volt lines and the fan. Thus I knew it was safe to jump the limit.

If you are in doubt, seek some advice.
Good Luck, Arno

While i was inserting the new lp,gas orriface to the right rear burner tube I dropped the oriface.Without looking i popped the top of the burner unit, like most older type stoves, and thats when i ran into my problem. I realized the burner tube assemblies are attached by 3 screws to the top cover.Not attached to the cabinet as the older models, Basically cracked both front aluminum tubes trying to retrieve the dropped oriface. so i had to replace the burner tube units, which involved removing 3 screws, and loosing up and removal of the nut to the main gas tube. extremely easy repair, next time i`ll try to remember look before i leap,total time to (r+r)burner tubes about 20 minutes.Parts select pulled me out of the fire on this one, great staff and service, with quick delivery.

Turn circuit breaker off.Raise up cook top and remove 6 screws that hold catch pan in place.move 3 screws that hold switch cover panel [2 sections]in place. Pull off knob for bad switch and remove 2 screws.Pull off each of the 5 wire terminal clips by removing one at a time and replacing that one on the new switch control to assure correct placement.Reinstall switch cover panel and catch pan.

Pulled refrigerator plug from socket.
Removed all freezer items. Put them into sink to keep cool.
Phillips head screwdriver removed screws from plastic housing fan cover from rear of freezer compartment.
Removed fan housing panel by lifting up and out. Panel has two small tabs that fit into back panel.
Removed back panel with phillips head screwdriver.
Fan is now exposed. Not working.
Plugged power cord back in.
Disconnected power adapter to fan.
Voltage meter sees power to ground and hot wire.
Fan not working
Unplugged power cord.
Removed fan from rear by socket tool.
Used hair dryer to remove ice build up in styrofoam insert between freezer compartment and lower section.
Removed foam insert....broke a couple of pieces off.
Test new motor with a line cord wire stripped at ends
Motor works. (Old one did not work with same test)
Replaced fan into bracket.
Replaced bracket into rear of freezer.
Plugged power cord in.
Fan does not work.....Whoa!!!..closed freezer door and heard fan running!!! It works.
Replaced everything...foam insert, panels, food.
One week later, still working.....
(Now...I don't know why the fan did not start right away...it may be that there's a small round thermostat sitting on a copper tubing, that needed some time to kick in...but that's a supposition.)
Have fun

This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.

The condensor fan in the unit appeared to have been chewed by a mouse and would not function. We had a service call to verify this and ordered the parts. Delivery was extremely quick and we were able to complete the repair and place the unit back into service within 2 hours.

All that was necessary was to remove the bottom cardboard cover, replace the fan and grommets, and replace the door bushings.

Thanks!!

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope