2DHTW4305TQ0 Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

FOLLOWED YOUR VIDEO
RELEASED CLIPS ON CONTROL PANEL - ROTATED CONTROL PANEL TO THE REAR - UNPLUGGED WIRING & HOSE - TURNED CONTROL COUNTER CLOCKWISE & LIFTED OUT - REPLACED WITH NEW CONTROL IN REVERSE ORDER

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.

The switch just snapped out of the holding section and the new part was snapped back into its place. He put the top section back on and it worked! Being a woman not knowing anything about repairing machines, I thought it went very well. I just googled my problem with the washer, it sent me to this site saying what they thought was the problem, I live chatted with someone and they confirmed the solution. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days and my husband fixed it. And now I have a working washer again. Thank you for your site. Anne

I decided to order the part and attempt to install it. Actually was easy. Took my time and maybe took 90 minutes. Works great.

Ordered and replaced the sensor. Fairly simple. Washer runs good now. Thank you!

Unplug the washer. Used flat blade screwdriver under each end of the control housing on top of the machine. This popped the spring clips and allowed the control housing to be lifted up and rotated out of the way. Once out of the way, lift clip on wiring harness to lid switch, then pull the harness off. Use nutdriver to remove screw holding ground wire in place. Open lid of the machine. Pinch tab on back of the lid switch and rotate the switch up and out of the machine. Insert the new switch in the same manner, making sure that the machine lid remains open until the switch snaps into place. Attach ground wire using screw removed earlier and nutdriver. Clip wiring harness back in place. Close the lid and then rotate the control housing downward, and press on both ends to re-engage the spring clips which hold it down.

Same as described on your video. Very simple

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

I went to Youtube, looked up motor coupling repair for a Kenmore/Whirlpool washer. Chris Fix had an easy to follow video. I tilted the machine back, propped it up. Removed four clips holding two parts in place. Replaced the faulty coupler, Set the engine back in place replaced the clips, and was finished for a total price of $18.

I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO AND IT CHANGED OUT VERY GOOD IT WAS NOT AS HARD AS I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE. I HAD TO TAKE IT APART 3 TIMES. HE CHEWEW THE HOSES ON THE PUMP AND THE LITTLE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE WATER FILL CONTROLE. I THINK I AM A WASHER EXPERT.I AM 81 YEARS OLD SO ANYONE CAN DO IT.

1St I took the top cap from the agitator, I then removed the middle cap. I then removed the 7/16th bolt from the middle of the agitator and removed the agitator. I took the old broken parts out and replaced them with the new parts. I then put everything back together in the reverse order tried the washing out and it works great. Actually I just followed the instructions, which took 20 minutes, and everything was kopacetic.

It was really easy. I popped off the agitation cone cover, used a socket set to remove the bolt which holds it all together. I removed the broken part, assembled the new one, using the old one as a example. I installed the new one. . . And I have clean clothes again. So much better to fix the old machine then buy a new one. . .

Removed the fabric softner despenser on to of agitator.
Removed the filter inside the agitator, pull straight up
Removed the bolt in the center of the agitator using a an extension on a 5/!6 socket.
Pulled the agitator out of washer removed inner works by hand. There are 4 fiberglass parts with teeth on them, I removed these 4 units and replaced them with new ones and it them put agitator back together in the reverse order. Works great.

Based on all the other info here, I thought "ah-ha! I need to replace the clutch assembly". So I ordered the part, it came the next day (to Vermont, even!) and started to disassemble the agitator, motor, etc. just as shown in the video. I don't think I would have attempted it if it had not been for the video. It made the process seem very straightforward and easy, as long as you are comfortable using a socket set.

That said, there were some fairly minor differences between my machine and the one in the video, so your repair might differ a little. First of all, I did not need one of those spanners / tub wrenches (whatever they called it in the video-- the thing he hit with the sledge hammer) to take off that nut under the agitator. I didn't need to remove it, and the drive axle just pulled right out. Second, you really don't need to remove the motor mount. Just take the motor off, and then go right to removing the three bolts on the transmission.

Actually, my problem turned out to be NOT the clutch assembly, but the little plastic gear things that go between the motor and the transmission, fitting into that rubber ring thing. I lifted the motor off and one of them was sitting there in pieces! You can easily order this part, and it's even easier to install than the clutch assembly. The plastic pieces are reinforced with metal now, which seems like a good idea.

All in all, this was a fun little project, and now I am under the (probably false) impression that I can repair any problem with washing machines!