1CWTW5590VQ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.

Unplugged the main power. Removed the 2 screws in the back and top of the control panel. Pulled control panel forward and tipped towards me to remove from top of washer. Removed the ground wire screw with a socket/ratchet. Removed the switch by pressing the tap inwards. The tab was brittle and broke. Replaced the switch, ground wire with screw and the control panel. I notice that the 2 screws which secure the switch lever/hinge to the lid were loose. These 2 loose screws were actually the problem in the first place. The loose lever was not making good contact with the switch. I think the switch was actually fine but since I broke the tab on the switch I needed to replace it anyhow. Plugged in power cord and washed a load.

Basically I followed the great instructions provided on the Part Select webpages. I would consider myself to have more common sense than mechanical skill. I didn't want to have to keep going back to purchase more parts so I decided to buy the motor coupler (under $5), new clutch assembly (Under $30), new motor (under $160). The shaft on the original motor wore down to a cylindrical shape which should have been more of a rectangular shape to fit precisely into the motor coupler and provide the grip strength for the washer tub to spin. Usually the no spin problem is linked to a faulty motor coupler. I was glad that I had to removed the motor to reach the motor coupler because in my case the coupler had not failed. That is when I saw the motor shaft had worn. Since I had all the new parts I replaced them all and since 6/13/19 the washer is running like new. Oh, the problem was most likely caused by someone in my family "overloading" the wash machine one too many times over 11 years. Guy's / Gal's you can do this and save yourself from buying a new washer for between $850 - $1,200. My repair expense was under $240 including tax and next day delivery of my parts. Thanks Part Select !!!! Neil

I disconnect power from wall outlets. Turn off pipes and remove water hoses from machine. Clear machine making room to operate.
I removed two Phillip head screws from behind the console, press down lightly on console then flipped it back. Disconnect the lid switch by releasing the plastic clip. Used a screwdriver to release the 2 metal holding clips (one on each side on top of machine. Ease the case up slightly then pull back gaining access to the centrifugal switch which is mounted to the motor with one Phillip head screw. One end of switch was broken and disconnected. Motor was not keeping up. Discharged capacitor by grounding the terminals with an insulated plyers. Lift the clip on the broken switch then pull the connector off. With new switch in hand, remove each of the 5 wires from the old switch by using a needle nose pliers one by one and connect them to the new switch making sure each one is properly secured in please. Connect the new switch to the motor using the single screw. Secure the connector to switch. Replace case by tilting back about 45 degrees, slide under front frame of machine all the way then down inplace. Use the two metal clips to secure frame to rear panel. Reconnect lid switch. Return machine to usual spot, reconnect water hoses, turn pipes on make sure there are no leaks. Plug back into wall outlet. Washer was tried and all cycles were completed.

Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]

After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.

I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.

Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.

During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.

Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".

I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.

Be careful to make it a point to remember how you take things apart and in what order. If you have a cell phone take pictures as you go so you can refer back if you forget how something was. From the back of your washer, you will find two Phillip head screws, one on the left and one on the right, which hold the top controls panel in place, back these two screws out until the panel becomes disconnected. Remove the four nut driver screws from the back panel, two at the top, two at the bottom. At the top of the washer under the loosened control panel you will see two brass finished snap brackets. Pop these loose with a screw driver, lift up the back panel slightly, note how it is held in place at the bottom so you can get it back in place correctly when reassembling. Now you are in! Unplug the old unit and pop it off the panel. Plug in the new one and reverse the way you took it all apart. Hope this was helpful!

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.

I removed dispenser for softener, then pulled cap inside upper agitator, I was able to get my fingers in the grips and pull firmly to unseat it. (disgard o-ring it comes with the repair kit). I then removed the bolt from center and grabbed the bottom of the lower agitator and gave it a good tug to release the whole unit. If that don't work you can get a flat tip screwdriver between the two sections and pry up slightly. Once it was all loose I removed the upper assembly taking care to to remember how all the pieces were assembled. replaced everything in the same order and when it came time to reinstall the inner cap and seal I made sure I put the cap in straight. Also if the seal doesn't cooperate you can use a little liquid soap to lubricate it. you dont want to use grease because it could possibly get on the clothes (the softener sits in there)! You can use the tip of the screwdriver to tuck the oring in if that doesn't work but be very careful

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.

I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.