1CLSQ9549PG0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Just bought my washer and dryer from Home Depot, but bought an Admiral model that didn't come with a fabric softener dispenser. Ordered the part from PartSelect and after rocket fast shipping installed it in seconds. The installation required no tools as the dispenser just snapped right in. My clothes are now soft and free of static cling. Thank you PartSelect!!

Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the long shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.

I was looking for a repairman when I found your excellent website. Even with the advice from your share the stories it took almost an hour to get the control panel off the top of the machine. There were 2 sets of 2 screws and when I finally realized what sliding the panel forward toward the front of the machine meant it came right off. When I first replaced the lid switch (easy once the control panel was open) the machine still wouldn't cycle. My choice was replace the timer, call a repairman or buy a new machine. Replacing the timer was easy with the control panel already open but I had to buy a 1/4 and 3/16 hex nut driver to remove the timer. The whole repair including parts, shipping and tools cost $110. Without your diagrams and parts list I never would have had the guts to try this repair. Thanks.

First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.

placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.

Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

After uplugging and removing the hoses from the back of the washer, 1 - Removed four screws that secure control panel to top of machine and tilted panel toward front. Disconnected wiring plugs as req'd to gain more access. 2 - Removed the two gold colored clips that secure the top to the lower sheetmetal housing and tilted the lower housing away from the back of the machine. 3 - Removed the shield that is clipped to the back just above the inlet valve assy. 4 - Removed the hose clamp from the valve, disconnected the four wires to the valve (note their position), Removed the single screw that secures the valve assy to the back and removed the valve assy. Installation is reverse of above.

Unplug machine then removed two screws from the back of the control panel so that the panel could be removed from the top of enclosure. I then removed the two spring clips that fastens the enclosure to the back panel of machine. Stand in front of machine and tilt enclosure back towards you, this opens up the machine to get access to the inlet valve. Remove all electrical wires and the water hose at the bottom of the valve. There was only one bolt that attached the valve to the back panel; remove it and replace water inlet valve.

The repair is very easy with the part found at PartSelect.com. Take the following steps to replace the water level switch:
1. Remove the front panel by unscrewing two screws on the back side
2. Pull off the dial knob from the front
3. Twist the water level switch in either way to remove the switch from the panel
4. Disconnect the connector of control wires and water hose from the broken switch
5. Reconnect the control connector and water hose
6. Push and twist the switch to put back on the front panel
7. secure the front panel by tighten up two screws on the back side of panel

Tried different cycles, none advanced. Went online to find exploded view of washer top for removal information. Remove power plug from outlet! Removed a few screws and bolts, pulled plugs and the knob. Look around further instructions were inside. Then removed existing timer for part number specifics. Checked online - timer costs were close but shipping varied quite a bit. PartSelect had the best value. Received package next day. Installed and running within a half hour.

!. Removed agitator from inside
2.Removed outside cabinet
3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.
4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom
5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.
6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.

Took the cup for the clothes softner out, just pulls out, took plastic seal out, just pulls out, took the socket set,with an exstention, unscrewed the bolt & pulled out the agitator. easy. Reverse the process in putting the agitator back. P.S. Right hand thread.




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First I removed the fabric softner dispenser. Then I removed cap took screw out removed agitator asseembly put new one in then I put screws back in.

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.