11062062100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart
250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve

turned off the power and removed the back cover, checked the thermal fuse had no continuity. ordered new part. very easy Installed the new thermal fuse,.replaced the cover, turned on the power and worked fine.

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

Watched on-line video on how to disassemble and test heater element, thermostat, and hi-temp shut down. Heater element was open. Ordered new heater element. Re-installed heater element iaw video provided with parts. Video provide was one of the best I've seen. Explanation on releasing access panel was especially helpful.

Remove screws, dryer sensor on screen. Put sensor back in place. Secure with screws. The way you take it off go in reverse.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

You can buy the switch AND lever/latch, but partselect had lever by itself which is all I needed. Pay attention to orienation of lever around switch when you take old latch off and attach new. Also, be careful to not drop new lever behind/beneath clothes dryer drum. Took my wife and I a while to fish it out. I have replaced heating element, and other parts. At some point it will be time for a new dryer...

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.