11029072990 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

The repair was easy and the video tutorial was great. That was the easy part. I also had to replace the drain pan and getting it in and out of the pan is no easy task. Plus when you have not moved the washer in 10 years there is some cleaning to do. I would not hesitate to do it myself again. It cost me $20 and some sweat equity.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.

Looked at the video instructions on the web site, then noticed my model was slightly different. Switched to YouTube. Searched "Water Inlet Valve Replacement Whirlpool Washer". The repair was faster than advertised (40 minutes total). Less time than waiting for a repair person... Very good delivery service from Part Select. Will buy again!

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

Removed housing from washer to gain access to bad water inlet valve, removed old inlet valve, installed new valve using your instruction video and now the washer I bought back in 1994 works like new. Thanks PartSelect for your great service and FAST DELIVERY of part.

Took back of washing machine off and put the part on.Easy

Remove two screws at the back of the control panel and slide forward to release the hooks, unplug the door switch then swing it over the top toward the back. Remove two fasteners at the top holding the case in place with a screwdriver. Slide case toward front of machine and remove to expose the pump. Remove two clips and two hoses from pump. Installation is the reverse of these steps.

Leaned the washer back to get at the bottom, removed the water holes, removed the water pump, removed the motor, replaced the direct drive motor coupling. Put it back together and it's all good. No clutch or drive problems. Simple fix.

I generally followed the video. Disconnected the water hoses, removed the front, laid the washer on its back. My water pump is rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it in place. I removed the water pipes from the pump then removed the pump/motor/gearbox as one unit. Watch out for more water than you think being released from the pipes and pump!! Everything works well with the new clutch fitted.

First let me say that I received the within 24 hours from when I ordered it online. Disconnected electric and water hoses .Removed screws on the top control panel then flipped it back from washer housing . Removed washer housing to expose main motor. Removed motor clips and screws . Removed motor coupling . Installed new coupling . Put it all back together . Works great!