11028812790 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed top cover cap, used socket and extension to remove agitator hold down bolt, removed agitator from machine. used screw driver to release locking tabs on center cone section to access location in which to fit the cogs. the cogs have a round end which fits into a slot which holds the cogs in position,snapped center cone back into place, put agitator back into washer, replaced hold down bolt,replaced cover cap and we were back in business.

I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with an extension and a 7/16 inch socket. Removing that bolt was easy. The entire agitator assembly came off. Getting the upper agitator to come off (to separate it from the bottom agitator) was the hard part.

I have an older washer, so mine was different from the video found on this site, but I do remember the guy saying that there were some tabs you may need to "remove".

So looking down from the top, you can see that there are two tabs that stand up vertically. These are holding the upper agitator locked to the lower agitator. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and a phillips screwdriver and a hammer to break off these tabs so that they would be out of the way and allow the upper agitator to be removed, so that I could get to the cogs to replace them. (Don't worry about busting these tabs off because the bolt you initially removed holds it all together in the washer.) After taking those tabs off, replacing the cogs and re-assembling everything was easy. Those tabs were a bit stubborn though. Overall, worked great. I'm glad I got that fixed. The washer works like a champ now and I can do large loads again.

Removed agitator cap, removed bolt holding agitator to post, replaced cogs in holder. The teeth on cogs had worn off over time, I had checked it out previous to ordering parts and knew it only needed the new cogs. 20 yr old machine and after repair still works like new. Shipping was super fast 2 days.

Removed softner cup , lifted cover to 7/16 'bolt,removed same, removed (dogs) and thrust spacer. Replaced with kit order , put back in reverse of removal, and checked. Real easy, thanks for your interest. Al scelzo fairlawn, new jersey

First confirmed it wasn't the lid switch by jumping. Then confirmed by taking off washer cover that the transmission was leaking and spraying oil as evidenced by yellow oil film on the inside of the washer cover. The leaking oil caused the clutch assembly to slip and wear. Replaced both the clutch assembly and the transmission upper two seals.

To repair, after taking the washer cover off removed the agitator holding screw. Then remove two clips holding water pump. Unconnect the motor wires and remove two clips holding motor in place. Tilte washer back leaning up on a chair and remove 3 bolts holding transmission assy in place. Slid out the transmission/ shaft from machine.
I rebuilt the transmission by separating the case on bench and replacing two seals. To do this you first need to remove clutch assembly from the trans agitator shaft. The clutch is held on by a washer and two spring clips. You need to take note of the orientation of the parts for proper reassembly. The difficult part was separating the cover of the transmission from the base . After removal of the cover screws using a putty knife and hammer I gently tapped all around to separate the halves. The I replaced the two upper seals, one one the cover and one in the output shaft. The second difficult part that requires some skill is removing the seal from the transmission cover. I used a hair dryer to heat up the aluminum cover to ease removal of the seal. After replacement of the seals I resealed the cover onto the base using automotive silicone gasket maker. Note; I kept the transmission level during this repair so that I did not need to drain oil. After keeping the transmission level and allowing 24 hours for the silicon to cure I assembled the new clutch assembly and clips in reverse order on transmission shaft. Then reassembled the transmission, motor and pump in reverse order. Ran machine with full load of towels. Spin problem fixed and transmission is still leak free a week later.

Coupling bad. Turned washer upside down, removed hoses from pump on back of motor, removed two leads from the capacitor, removed the wiring clip from the motor. Pulled the two clips from the pump and removed. Unscrewed screws in the two clips and removed from motor. Pulled motor, removed bad coupling, removed a cover plate that had two screws. Installed coupling, lined up motor & coupling and reversed the uninstall procedure. Washer now works great!!

After seeing video it was easy . Took everything apart tub,basket,replaced all springs. Tub wear pads. It took longer because I cleaned eveything,took my time. There was a lot of deposits on tub and outer tub also some rust . Put it all back together all nice and clean . pluged it in put it in spin cycle and the motor just hummed. I than check to see if somethig was stuck no .Pulled motor tested it with out a load and did not work. Motor start winding went. Motor died. 2n one in 7 years. So I fixed that proplem I am a new owner of a Speed Queen washer and dryer .

plugged in the water hoses and placed it back in place, and presto, it saved me a lot of money!

well the replacement of the directional cogs was easy, once i was able to separate the the top and bottom half of the actual agitator. What i could not find out about my whirlpool gold was their was 4 plastic tabs that held the whole cog assembly onto the agitator. i could not pull it apart like all the videos were showing, until i took it to a repair shop and he showed me. After i used a hammer with a screwdriver to break the plastic tabs, it popped right apart. The actual repair only took about 30 min. once i was able to get the agitator apart.

I first watched the provided video and proceeded to follow those instructions. Pretty simple, actually. thanks for your help, partselect.com

Replaced the Lid Switch Assembly by following the PartSelect's video instruction on lid switch replacement.

Tilt the washer back enough to access the bottom of the washer. Remove two hose clamps with pliers,then remove 2 hoses attached to pump. Remove two metal spring straps and remove pump. reverse to install.

Let me start by saying that I only had to wait one day for the new water pump. Awesome! Once I figured out how to accessed the waterpump, the real challenge began. The washer had been leaking for some time and removing the old pump turned out to be more difficult than expected. The bottom clip used to secure the pump was completely rusted. It took some effort to remove the old pump but it finally came off. Once it was removed, I discovered why it was so difficult. The drive shaft from the motor was so rusted that a groove had been worn into it. I ended up using a metal file to smooth off the rust in order to install the new pump. With a bit of coaxing, I was able to install the new pump, re-attach the hoses and re-assemble the machine. It works like a charm now. No more leaking! Yeah!

Turned machine on it’s back after removing the hose that goes to the drain, removed the bottom dust guard, I removed the hoses (take a picture before removing things so you know how to orient them when putting it back together) and drained the water first but this is not necessary (there are YouTube videos where they suggest removing the outer case, unclipping the pump and then removing the motor. This would be optimal as you don't need to deal with the water running out of the washer when you remove the hoses). Removed the 4 electrical connectors (multi-plug, 1 x two prong plug and 2 capacitor connector plugs) One of the motor hangers were broken on my machine, I removed the other one and then slipped the motor out. Removed the broken hanger and securing screws and the old rubber grommets, slipped the coupling out (had to leverage out with a large flat screwdriver). Installed new coupling and rubber on the gearbox side, 4 grommets on the motor and the other coupling on the motor. Inserted the hangers on the gearbox side and then mounted the motor. (it is easier if you turn the washer on its back so the drum moves down and gives you more room to drop the motor in from the top), clipped the motor hangers on and fastened the two metal screws, mounted the pump and hoses and reinstalled the dust guard. Turned it right side up and tested before dragging it back into the laundry. Washing again like it did when first bought it in 1998. I would recommend that when a coupling brakes, replace it as well as the hangers and grommets to make sure it has no room for play. Mine broke way too quick as I did the last coupling about a year ago, problem I think was that I had the wrong grommets causing excessive vibration and wear.

I followed the instructions on youtube and replaced the drain pump. It was so easy!!! I am so proud of myself and so is my husband! I took off the cover and simply replaced the drain pump. I am such a stud! :)