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fan had stopped-freezer not performing etc.
simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!
Refigerator would freeze up and stop cooling, I would turn off defrost over a 24 hour period by leaving the freezer door open. Then turn it back on and it would cool like crazy for about a week and then it would freeze up agian. This went on for about a month then I knwe the problem was in the defro
The first thing to do was determine what part of the defrost circuit was bad. (it could have been the defrost timer assembly or the defrost heater or a bad wire in the circuit). To do this I took the cover off of the refrigerator temp control to see the timer. Taking a large screw driver I rotated the timer (clockwise) until I heard the compressor cut off. Then I placed a mark on the timer to note its location and waited to see if the mark moved( this indicated the motor was running). After 20 minutes the compressor kicked back on and the timer had rotated, this told me the timer was at least rotating. The next step was to see if there was voltage going to the defrost heater around the freezer evaporation coil. (The heater is what melts the frost of the evaporation (cooling) coils This requires the removal of all the shelves, ice maker, and all the covers in the freezer section to expose the evaporation coil. The defrost heater wraps around the outside edges of the evaporation coil. The heater is suppose to come on for 20 minutes every 8 hours to keep the evaporation coil from becoming covered with frost which will prevent the air from circulating into the refrigerator section. I found where the heater leads plug into the back wall of the freezer and with the power on and in the defrost cycle (turn or index the timer around with the large screw driver until the compressor cuts off again). Carefully read across these two heater leads and check for 120 VAC. Noting there was 120vac across these two leads I then turned the refrigerator off and unplugged the refrigerator from the wall. Now with the Volt Meter set to the Ohms setting I unplugged the two heater leads with the needle nose pliers and read the ohm value across the two wire leads of the heater element. (I got lucky and found a schematic folded up and stuck just behind the front grill at the bottom of the freezer). The schematic told me the ohm value should have been 22 ohms. However, my value was 0 ohms this told me the heater had an open circuit (it had a broken wire inside the heater element). I located the correct part using the model # on the Part Select website and ordered the defrost heater element for my model refrigerator. I received the part in three days. Now for the fun part, of removing and installing the new element. This is not brain surgery but … it is not for the faint at heart either, you must be able to work in tight areas and be agile enough to sit on the floor while reaching the back of the freezer and be patient and deliberate with your moves. (kind of like playing the Milton Bradley game “Operation” as a kid) Next step is to remove the two top screws holding the evaporation coil to the back of the freezer, then remove the cover to expose the refrigerant lines inside the freezer, remove the two foam side supports holding the coil centered in the back of the freezer and then VERY carefully lift the evaporation coil straight up to un- hook it from the bottom clips which hold the bottom of the coil stationary. Then gently remove the two aluminum side plates from the coil by bending the tabs that hook these plates to the curved refrigerant coils they are hooked around. With the side plates removed then carefully un- hook the 4 clips which hold the heater in place around the evaporation coil. Using a pair of needle nose pliers unplug the heater leads from the back wall contact point (Remember to be sure and unplug refrigerator before doing this) At this point VERY carefully lift up slightly and gently pull the bottom of the coil out (trying to keep the top of the coil at the same elevation and parallel to the back wall pull the bottom out to a point where the heater element can be slid down and out of the evaporation coil as it is basically woven thru the coil assembly to efficiently defrost the coil. Once the heater is carefully slipped down and out of the evaporation coil, replace the heater element with the new one by feeding the wires bac
Chirping sound coming from the freezer-old gasket on food door causing air leakage r
Removed shelving,ice maker & other air deverters to get at fan motor. Disconnected power, then removed motor by removing screws holding motor assembly in place. Push fan blade on to motor reconnect wiring. Chirping stopped and ice cream is now rock hard.
Food door gasket was more time consuming than hard. Loosen old gasket screws with not driver. Gasket is then easily removed. Reinstall gasket, but keep retaining strips loose so you can adjust gasket for a correct fit.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
Refrig Door Cams wore out and made noises when opening and closing.
Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.
First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!
Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!
I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
Removed the top plastic hinge cover, remove (2) bolts from top hinge. Lifted door up and off of lower hinge, removed both halves of door cam, replaced cam halves and re-installed door. Super easy and effective. Door now opens and closes (stays closed) properly.
I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid
The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!
Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
